周黛西's Reviews Page 4/11

Leaving Kumamoto and heading toward Aso, as the car slowly left the city, the view gradually opened up. The winding mountain road climbed upward, with rolling hills and endless emerald-green grasslands as far as the eye could see.

After arriving at Kusasenri, I couldn't wait to run onto the grassland as soon as the car was parked. The sky seemed so distant and high, and the grassland stretched endlessly. Visitors looked like tiny dots scattered everywhere, or strings of little dumplings, and I was one of them. The vast sky, the boundless wilderness, and cattle and horses appearing as the wind bent the grass—Kusasenri truly lives up to its name as a magnificent grassland. Walking across the grassland, the breeze was cool against my face. From a high vantage point, I could gaze at Mount Aso on one side and the vast grassland on the other. I couldn't help but marvel at the wonders of nature. Deep and light greens—dark green, yellow-green, emerald green, blue-green—all kinds of green shifted in the sunlight. So beautiful!

Back at the parking lot, there's no need to rush off. You can have a cup of coffee at Kusasenri Coffee Roastery and settle your thoughts, or browse the shop next door and stock up for your journey.

On the way up to Kato Shrine, you'll pass through a lively place—Sakuranobaba Josaien. This area is bustling with people. Many restaurants are scattered throughout, including famous local Kumamoto cuisine and branches of long-established traditional shops, allowing visitors to sample authentic horse sashimi, mustard-stuffed lotus root, and all kinds of local specialties in one place. The “Jindaiko Ice Cream” is made by Kumamoto's well-known confectionery shop Okashi no Kobai, combining the local specialty “Homare no Jindaiko” with rich milk to create soft-serve ice cream. I watched the staff skillfully cut the Jindaiko into small pieces and put them into the machine. Before long, a cold soft-serve cone appeared, blending a milky aroma with smooth red bean paste and soft, chewy mochi. It was sweet and smooth, perfect for a hot summer day.

In the center of Josaien is a covered outdoor stage. From time to time, several performers dressed as samurai, known as the “Kumamoto Castle Hospitality Warlords,” weave through the crowd and kindly pose for photos with visitors. What left a strong impression on me was a charming “town girl” who spoke fluent Chinese and had a delightful conversation with some travelers who were also from Taiwan. At the Kumamoto Castle Museum Wakuwakuza, visitors can explore the history of Kumamoto Castle through virtual reality tours and projection mapping experiences, take part in activities depicting everyday life during the Edo period and the lives of high-ranking officials and nobles, and uncover the secrets behind the castle's construction.

Sakuranobaba Josaien has a fantastical feeling where past and present intersect, along with a nostalgic sense of traveling through time. It's a great place for the whole family to come and join the fun.

Kumamoto Castle, which is currently being restored, is scheduled to open on August 13. Since I was already there, I took a detour through the grounds of Kato Shrine to admire the majestic keep of Kumamoto Castle from a different angle.

To the right of the approach to the worship hall stands a towering sacred tree. A small shrine and a tiny torii gate have been placed where the trunk splits, giving it a divine presence. The sacred tree symbolizes that the gods are everywhere, inspiring people to feel gratitude and faith toward all things in the world.

Kato Shrine primarily enshrines Kato Kiyomasa, a renowned general of the Sengoku period who also built Kumamoto Castle. Combining this famous warrior with the widely beloved Kumamon resulted in Samurai Kumamon. Seeing the usually cheerful Kumamon with a serious expression for the first time made me see him in a whole new light and filled me with admiration.

Kato Shrine really isn't very large, but I loved its tranquil atmosphere. After visiting the main hall, you'll find the shrine office nearby filled with all kinds of amulets, ema plaques, and goshuin stamps. You might want to choose one for yourself, with the hope that the gods' blessings will make your wishes come true and your dreams take flight.

On a beautiful, breezy morning, we set out for Suizenji Jojuen Garden. Jojuen is not only a nearly 400-year-old Japanese garden but also an important nationally designated scenic spot and a must-see when visiting Kumamoto.

Upon entering, the first things that come into view are the central spring-fed pond and the “Mt. Fuji mound.” The pond covers about 10,000 square meters and is fed by underground water flowing from Mt. Aso. Watching the large koi swim leisurely through the emerald-green water is very soothing. Cherry, pine, and plum trees, among others, are planted around the pond, so the scenery probably changes with each season. The Mt. Fuji mound and the shimmering pond complement each other beautifully and are worth seeing.

This stroll garden was named after the line “The garden grows more delightful with each daily stroll” from “The Return” by the Eastern Jin poet Tao Yuanming. This also made me notice the haiku monuments dedicated to the Japanese literary master Natsume Soseki. By the time I completed a loop from the entrance, I had found all three haiku monuments. I’ll savor them more deeply later when reflecting on these memories.

On our first night in Kumamoto, we stayed at Onyado Nono. Kamitori Shopping Arcade was right next door, bustling with people and full of energy. There were all kinds of food, izakayas, drugstores, and fresh fruit and vegetable shops (how could we miss the sweet, juicy peaches and grapes this season? 🤤)

From City Hall, where Kamitori and Shimotori meet, you can see Kumamoto Castle in the distance. Its warm lights symbolize the resilient, gentle yet strong spirit of this city.

I had barely finished seeing the belugas before flying to Fukuoka. My first stop on this return trip to Kyushu was Yamaga, a hot spring town full of Edo-period charm.

Yamaga is in northern Kumamoto Prefecture and is known for its hot springs, lantern festival, and century-old kabuki theater, Yachiyoza. Yachiyoza is not only a cultural symbol of Yamaga but also one of Japan's valuable examples of wooden theater architecture, renowned for its unique wooden structure and beautiful Japanese architectural style.

The theater retains many traditional features, including a revolving stage, rising platforms, brass chandeliers, box seating, and ceiling advertisements... I sat here for a long time, breathing in the scent of the wooden building. Closing my eyes, I could feel the theater's rise and fall over the years. Today, it hosts not only theatrical performances but also other cultural events. Across the street, Yume Kogura, converted from a white-walled storehouse, displays valuable items such as stage props and costumes.

The afternoon sun was hidden behind the clouds as I strolled leisurely through the streets and soaked my feet with Kumamon. Nice〜

"Sora no Tama / Kankakei" is an installation artwork created by renowned Japanese sculptor Noe Aoki for the Setouchi Triennale. It is currently a very popular photo spot and scenic viewpoint on Shodoshima. From the mountaintop station of the Kankakei Ropeway, it takes about a 10-minute walk along the trail toward Takatori Observatory to get there.

"Sora no Tama" is a giant hollow iron sphere with a diameter of about 4 meters. Its surface naturally oxidizes over time and through the changing seasons, and the resulting tones blend perfectly with the scenery of Kankakei. Visitors can step inside the iron sphere and admire the view through its circular rings. There is also a phone stand nearby, positioned at a convenient angle for taking photos with "Sora no Tama" and capturing a one-of-a-kind silhouette.

"Sakura no Sho" at Kotohira Grand Hotel is located beside the 22nd step of the approach to Kotohiragu Shrine. Walk down the hotel stairs and you’re right by the marine museum and the shopping street along the approach.

The front desk staff included a Taiwanese employee who gave us a warm welcome and helpful explanations. This time we booked one night with one meal and stayed in a Japanese-Western style room. As soon as we entered, we were impressed by how clean, tidy, comfortable, and bright it was. The view from the window was even more beautiful, like a natural painting right in front of us. If you’re heading to Kotohiragu Shrine, the hotel also offers free bamboo walking sticks to borrow at the entrance.

Dinner was Japanese cuisine, and the staff took great care of us. The food looked beautiful, smelled amazing, and tasted great too. It was a feast for both the camera and our appetites 😋

The open-air hot spring was wonderful. At night, the women’s bath had a "rose bath" filled with colorful roses. It made me feel pampered like a royal consort, relaxing in a luxurious, fragrant bath and washing away all my fatigue... Feels so good~

Taking a large sightseeing boat is the best way to enjoy Matsushima Bay. You can get a close-up view of the many big and small islands scattered across the bay. The gentle sea breeze and the seagulls flying alongside make it a lot of fun.

After getting off the boat, you can try the fresh oyster dishes at the nearby restaurants. I normally don’t care much for oysters, but this totally changed the way I think about them. Crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, and the sweet ocean flavor bursts out with each bite. Paired with the restaurant’s special dipping sauce, all I could think was: "Umai~~"

I’d long admired Nambu ironware tea kettles, but I always worried they’d make my luggage too heavy, so I kept passing on them. On one trip to Tohoku, I was drawn into a Nambu ironware direct sales shop along the road from Matsushima to the National Treasure Zuiganji Temple. I ended up buying a kyusu teapot and an adorable owl paperweight. There were also bear bells and delicate accessories, but I’d already given those away as gifts to good friends~

That’s right—Nambu ironware isn’t just about kettles and cookware of all sizes. There are all kinds of creative lifestyle items too. Some are rustic, some are refined, and if you see something you like, don’t miss it!

I’ve heard that boiling water in an iron kettle releases iron ions, but I wonder if the same happens when brewing tea with hot water? Either way, the kyusu I picked has simple, understated lines, and for me it’s probably more meaningful as a commemorative piece than for everyday use. And don’t let the little owl fool you—it’s surprisingly heavy and a great little helper when I’m writing! I really can’t stop admiring it ❤️