Kumano Kodo Travel Guide: Set Out on a Journey Through Japan’s History and Spiritual Traditions

Long ago, as Kumano faith grew, members of the imperial family traveled the “Kumano Kodo” to make the Kumano pilgrimage (くまのもうで), and the practice gradually spread to common people as well.
The Kumano pilgrimage refers to visiting the “Kumano Sanzan.”
Kumano faith is one form of folk belief, and there’s even a saying, “Seven times to Ise, three times to Kumano,” showing how sacred “Ise” and “Kumano” are to Japanese people, regarded as two of Japan’s greatest sacred sites.
It’s said that Fujiwara no Teika (ふじわらのていか), known as the compiler of Ogura Hyakunin Isshu (a poetry anthology selecting one waka poem per poet), also visited the “Kumano Kodo,” a pilgrimage route walked by countless people since ancient times.

Its main enshrined deity is Ketsumimiko no Okami (けつみみこのおおかみ), and it is said to have been founded during the reign of Japan’s 10th emperor, Emperor Sujin. In 2004, it was registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site.
For centuries it drew devotion not only from the upper classes but also from samurai and commoners, and it’s said the long lines of worshippers heading here from across Japan were likened to “ants on a Kumano pilgrimage.”
On the grounds, you’ll be welcomed by a magnificent cypress-bark-roofed shrine building enshrining Ketsumimiko no Okami along with Fusumi no Okami (ふすみのおおかみ) and Hayatama no Okami (はやたまのおおかみ).

Known as the “land of rebirth,” this grand shrine draws a steady stream of worshippers seeking courage and resolve to take a new step at turning points in life.
Together with Kumano Hongu Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha, it is one of the Kumano Sanzan and is an ancient shrine serving as the head shrine of the 5,000 Kumano Shrines across Japan. It was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2004.
Its beautiful vermilion-lacquered shrine buildings enshrine a total of 18 deities, centered on the divine couple Kumano Hayatama Okami and Kumano Fusumi Okami.

This ancient shrine traces its origins back to 662 BC, when Kamuyamato Iwarehiko no Mikoto (かむやまといわれひこのみこと / later Emperor Jimmu) enshrined Nachi Falls as a deity.
It is the head shrine of Kumano Shrines nationwide and is also known as one of the Kumano Sanzan. Beyond being a revered site, it is also said to be a shrine that connects people and grants various wishes, and is also known by the alternative name “Musubimiya.”
General worship is open to all, but if you’re visiting, a formal worship service (first-fruits offering: 5,000 yen) is recommended. The service takes approx. 30 minutes, and you can also receive an explanation of the shrine’s history and background from a Shinto priest at the main hall.

A waterfall located within the sacred precincts of Kumano Nachi Taisha, the head shrine of the more than 4,000 Kumano Shrines across Japan.
With a height of 133 m, a width of 13 m at the Choshiguchi (the starting point of the flow), and a basin depth of 10 m, it is one of Japan’s largest waterfalls, with a flow exceeding 1 ton per second.
It’s not only a famous scenic spot representing Wakayama, but also a symbolic site of Nachisan faith, which has long upheld “water is the mother of life” as its foundation.

“Daimonzaka” is in Nachikatsuura Town in Wakayama and is the approach leading to “Kumano Nachi Taisha.”
As a route, it forms part of the Nakahechi route (なかへち).
Stone-paved steps stretching for around 640 m remain from the Kamakura period (1185–1333), strongly preserving the atmosphere of the Kumano Kodo of that era.
Surrounded by cedar trees over 800 years old, it’s a place where you can fully feel the pure atmosphere of this sacred site.
It’s also a top photo spot, so be sure to take a commemorative photo.

It has a history of being built by villagers as a suspension bridge for daily life during the postwar reconstruction period in 1954. Surrounded by deep mountains of magnificent nature, it’s a wire suspension bridge boasting one of the longest lengths in Japan.
It connects Uenoji and Tanize, measuring 297 meters in length and reaching a height of 54 meters.
Today, it is one of Totsukawa Village’s signature tourist attractions.

“Seiganto-ji” (せいがんとじ) sits next to “Kumano Nachi Taisha,” one of the “Kumano Sanzan,” the destination of the “Kumano Kodo,” and it is located on “Nasu-san.”
It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range,” and its solemn, historic exterior is a major draw.
Also, the vermilion three-story pagoda behind the main hall and Nachi Falls make an excellent photo spot.

“Dorokyo Gorge” (どろきょう) is part of “Yoshino-Kumano National Park” and is, in other words, a gorge.
It is located not far from a point along the Iseji (いせじ) route on the way to “Kumano Hongu Taisha.”
Designated as a Special Place of Scenic Beauty by the Japanese government, the sight of huge rocks ranging from 20 m to 50 m high lined up together is a breathtaking view. You’re sure to be amazed by its scale.

A route of about 84 km that starts in Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture, passes through the mountainous areas to “Kumano Hongu Taisha” and “Kumano Nachi Taisha,” and continues on to “Kumano Hayatama Taisha.”
While some sections are challenging, the overall difficulty is low.
Because the trail is well maintained, it’s suitable for beginners.
Much of the route runs alongside roads served by buses, so being able to hop on a bus depending on the situation is another nice point.
It’s the most popular route within the “Kumano Kodo” and can be considered the classic choice.

The Iseji route runs from “Ise Jingu” in Ise City, Mie, to the “Kumano Sanzan.”
From “Ise Jingu” to “Kumano Hayatama Taisha,” the total distance reaches 170 km.
It’s said that Taira no Kiyomori (たいらのきよもり), a warrior active in the Heian period (794–1185), also used the Iseji route for the Kumano pilgrimage.
It’s a route where you can see beautiful ocean views from many mountain passes, making it appealing for enjoying changing scenery as you walk.
Some sections are easy to walk and well maintained, but considering the total distance, the difficulty is not low.
To complete the route, you’ll need at least one week.

The Kohechi route (こへち) connects “Mt. Koya” and “Kumano Hongu Taisha,” running north to south across the Kii Peninsula.
It links the starting point to the destination “Kumano Hongu Taisha” via the shortest distance of 70 km, but because it passes through mountainous terrain with a series of passes, the difficulty is high and the journey is rugged.
Without hiking experience and skills, it’s difficult to complete.
Because the elevation gets high, there are great views, and one appeal is the many lookout points along the way.
If you have time, enjoy the views at each lookout point.

The “Kiji Route” (きいじ) refers to the route from “Jonangu Shrine” (じょうなんぐう) in Kyoto City, down the “Yodogawa River,” to Tanabe City.
From Tanabe City, it branches into the Ohechi route (おおへち) and the Nakahechi route.
Also, in Kitashinmachi, Tanabe City—the endpoint of the Kiji Route—there is a guidepost stone called “Michiwake-ishi,” so be sure to check it out.
With many shrines and temples along the way, the appeal of the “Kiji Route” is that you can travel while experiencing historical culture.
Although the route itself is long, most of the paths are paved, so it should be easy to walk.
If you plan with enough time, it isn’t difficult, and even beginners should find it easy to walk.

A route connecting Tanabe City to “Hamanomiya” in Nachikatsuura Town, though some say its endpoint is the neighboring “Fudarakusan-ji Temple” (ふだらくさんじ). It’s a long route at around 100 km and is known for having many slopes. Because of that, the difficulty is somewhat high.
It’s best suited for those who are somewhat used to trekking or hiking.
Highlights include the many sections—especially mountain passes—that have avoided urbanization and development, strongly preserving the old landscape.
Unique seascapes such as “Karekinada” (かれきなだ) and “Kumanonada” (くまのなだ) are also appealing, offering beautiful views.

A hot spring inn famously praised as “the very definition of a Japanese inn” by French writer and former Minister of Cultural Affairs André Malraux.
Since its founding in the Edo period, it has been loved by many writers and artists, including Takahama Kyoshi and Mizukami Tsutomu, and is a renowned inn representing Wakayama Prefecture.
“Azumaya” stands in front of the “Tsuboyu” bath in a purely Japanese-style building, with 22 guest rooms. Every room is carefully designed, and there are special rooms with open-air baths.

A hot spring ryokan located in Kawayu Onsen, one of the Kumano Hongu Onsen areas, spreading along the Oto River, a tributary of the Kumano River.
As its name suggests, Kawayu Onsen is a rare spot in Japan where a hot spring source of over 158°F (70°C) constantly bubbles up from the riverbed, so you can enjoy hot springs by digging into the riverbank.
An open-air bath exclusively for guests is set up on the riverbed of the Oto River.
With its own in-house hot spring source, relax in the baths while listening to the river’s murmurs and birdsong.

A hot spring ryokan in Watarase Onsen, one of the Kumano Hongu Onsen areas, with two lodging facilities offering different atmospheres and 10 hot spring facilities. “Sasayuri,” surrounded by a vast lawn, mainly features spacious Japanese-Western style rooms. “Yamayuri” mainly offers traditional Japanese-style guest rooms with a calm, relaxing feel.