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    Hakone is so cold in winter that while walking along the hot spring street, I barely wanted to take my hands out. I saw someone grilling fish cakes by the roadside, so I got a hot one on a stick and ate it as I walked. It warmed both my hands and my stomach. The grilled fish cake had a subtle charcoal aroma and was springy with a nice fish flavor. Simple but very tasty.

    Later, I also had grilled fish. The skin was fragrant and crispy, while the meat inside was still very tender. Eating freshly grilled hot food in the cold weather suddenly felt like one of those simple pleasures that make traveling so enjoyable.

    I took my time strolling along the hot spring street without rushing to the next stop, which made it even easier to appreciate Hakone's laid-back atmosphere.

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    Taking the mountain railway to Hakone-Yumoto Onsen is such a relaxing scenic journey. The train slowly winds through the mountains and forests, with lush greenery and mountain views filling the windows. You can occasionally see the valley too, making it hard to look away from the scenery outside.

    After arriving at Hakone-Yumoto, the atmosphere of the hot spring town immediately puts you at ease. Strolling along the streets, you'll find lots of unique shops and food on both sides. Browsing and eating along the way lets you soak up the distinct charm of a Japanese hot spring town.

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    If you come to Hakone, you have to explore this atmospheric hot spring street! Stroll along the street and you'll find one hot spring inn, restaurant, and souvenir shop after another. You can eat, browse, and shop as you go, so there's never a dull moment. The hot springs are said to date back to the Nara period, and the area became even more prosperous during the Edo period thanks to the Tokaido Road. When I visited on a weekday, there were fewer tourists than I expected, which made it especially pleasant to explore. It's easy to get there by taking the Odakyu Romancecar to Hakone-Yumoto Station. After exploring, soaking in a hot spring is such a treat!

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    Restaurants close pretty early, so there’s basically no nightlife here.

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    I stayed at Yoshikei Ryokan in Hakone-Yumoto. The huge Japanese garden is over 10,000 tsubo, and you can stroll around at your own pace. Super relaxing.

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    Take the Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku Station to Hakone-Yumoto Station, then transfer to the Hakone Tozan Cable Car. You can see all the famous Hakone sights along the way.

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    It only takes about an hour by train from Tokyo, so it's super convenient for a day trip.

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