Try amazing seafood tonkotsu ramen at Higashi-Jujo, Tokyo's Sansanto!

Exit from the north exit of Higashi-Jujo Station and head down the hill to your immediate left. Sansanto is located partway down in an old building with a red paper lantern, red signage, and an overall atmosphere that just screams Showa. There were around 12 people lined up when I arrived.

This shop asks you to buy your tickets first, which is the opposite of most other ramen joints. I swiftly made my way to the meal ticket machine located just inside the entrance, bought my tickets, and rushed back to find my place at the end of the line.

Choose from ramen, tsukemen (noodles that you dip in soup), and abura soba (soup-less oil noodles). I personally went for the ramen with an ajitama. Apparently the ramen and tsukemen are equally popular, with the abura soba close behind.

Inside there were only 8 counter seats. The plus side was that I only waited for my meal for about 5 minutes. The aroma was mesmerizing. When my bowl was placed in front of me, I admired the soft colour of the soup as the chashu (broiled pork slice), ajitama, menma bamboo shoots, scallions, and daikon radish sprouts began to whet my appetite.

First, I took a sip of the soup. Delicious!

In addition to tonkotsu (pork bones), the broth also incorporates chicken feet, dried fish flakes, and dried sardines for balance; it’s neither too rich nor too light. The animal products add a layer of umami that blends with the luxurious seafood flavours for a soup that can't be beat!

Sansanto is run by a lovely couple. The husband seemed a bit shy, but you could tell he prides himself in his work, and the wife was bright and cheerful. I think it’s a combination of the at-home atmosphere they create and their first-rate ramen that is what makes their little shop, Sansanto, as popular as it is.

This isn’t the easiest shop to visit, as it’s only open for 2.5 hours a day, but it’s worth planning around their business hours to try their amazing ramen!