The last time I visited Naruko Onsen was during a cold winter. Soaking in a hot spring was perfect in the frigid air. This small place in northeastern Japan doesn't get many foreign tourists. Most visitors are Japanese travelers, so it feels less bustling and more quiet and unassuming.
Besides its hot springs, Naruko Onsen is also famous in Japan for producing kokeshi dolls. After my bath, I wandered into some shops across the street and happened upon Grandpa Seiichi Okazaki's little shop. It was very simple inside, but felt warm and welcoming. Traditional tools for making kokeshi dolls lined the walls and tables. Each one looked as if it had been used for many years, with the passage of time etched into the wood. They must have accompanied him in his work for a long time.
We naturally started chatting in Japanese, and he seemed very happy. As we talked, he made a small sake cup by hand and gave it to me as a keepsake. It was just a simple little gift, but it added an unexpected touch of emotion to the trip. Before leaving, I also picked out a small kokeshi doll to take home. I never imagined that little wooden doll would sit there for so many years.
I hope I get the chance to return to Naruko Onsen someday and see whether Grandpa Okazaki is doing well.
