Monkey D. Luffy Statue | Review by 一個漸漸喜歡上慢旅的人

If, like me, you visit Kurokawa Onsen by car in the fall, you'll have a different kind of experience. Even though the weather didn't cooperate and a steady drizzle began to fall, it didn't dampen my enthusiasm at all. Wisps of white steam from the hot springs blended with the layers of misty mountains in the distance, giving this secluded mountain town a dreamlike veil of tranquility.

I recommend parking at the tourist information center first. Travelers who want to fully experience the various open-air baths can buy the signature wooden “Nyuto Tegata” bathing pass here. This time, I chose to slow down and explore the town, wandering through alleys lined with dark wooden buildings and trying the popular local pudding, which was sweet, rich, and silky smooth. It filled me with happiness.

In the slightly chilly air after the rain, I was delighted to come across a free footbath with a warm charcoal fire (Ikoi Ryokan Footbath). The moment I dipped my feet into the steaming hot spring water, my whole body warmed up. I loved that heartwarming moment of casually chatting with travelers from different places and warming our hands around the charcoal fire. The nearby hot spring inn also had unattended, honor-system hot spring eggs. You simply put in some coins and scoop out a piping-hot, soft-cooked treat, full of the simple charm of this small town. If you enjoy immersing yourself in the slow pace of an authentic Japanese hot spring town, Kurokawa Onsen is definitely worth a special trip.

If you're driving from south to north, Michi-no-Eki Kyoda is an excellent place to stop and stock up. Although there are plenty of parking spaces, pay a little attention to the traffic flow when turning into the entrance. This long-established rest stop, once honored as “Japan's No. 1,” may be small, but it has everything you need.

The rest stop brings together a wide selection of souvenirs and agricultural specialties from across Okinawa, and the prepared food section has plenty to offer. The piping-hot traditional sata andagi is crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and full of egg flavor—a must-try highlight. It's especially convenient to have lunch right here, as everyone can choose what they like, whether it's an Okinawan pork and egg rice ball, a local homestyle bento, richly flavored island tofu, or a scoop of local ice cream to cool off after the meal.

After you've had your fill, don't forget to walk up to the connecting pedestrian bridge. From above, you can enjoy a beautiful, expansive view of Okinawa's blue sea and look out toward Nago in the ocean breeze. It's an incredibly relaxing place to take a short break on the way to northern Okinawa.

In the afternoon, I strolled along the Monzenmachi Shopping Street in front of Aso Shrine. The most charming part was the unique Mizuki spring tour. Scattered along the street are fourteen distinctive spring water spots supplied by Aso’s fresh, sweet spring water. You can also try a special “sacred water fortune”—dip it in water, and your fortune appears, giving the experience a real sense of ceremony.

The area is also packed with food. In addition to the famous Aso cream puffs that draw lines, I recommend an unassuming burger place called MUSUBIKAZE, where you can dig into a rich, juicy Akaushi beef burger or an Akaushi beef bento. At the end of the street is the Former Girls’ School Site, which has an artsy Showa-era atmosphere and is home to shops selling antiques and carefully selected goods. It’s definitely worth spending an entire afternoon exploring at a leisurely pace.