Former Moji Customs House | Review by Linda Liao

I've visited many well-known attractions in Japan, but Onomichi is a place I can never forget and have always loved. This unpretentious seaside town lies between the mountains and the sea, with homes, small shops, and temples tucked among its rolling hills. Wandering through them feels like entering a maze, never knowing what surprise awaits around the next corner. To experience Onomichi's charming scenery, start at Senkoji Park and take the Senkoji Mountain Ropeway slowly up to the summit. As the ropeway climbs higher, the city of Onomichi, the Seto Inland Sea, and the islands scattered across the water gradually come into view. The scenery where the mountains meet the sea is refreshing and uplifting. After reaching the summit, you can also stroll through the park, admire the distinctive sight of Senkoji Temple built into the mountainside, and take in the tranquil atmosphere of this ancient temple.

As I made my way down the hillside, what I looked forward to most was visiting Neko no Hosomichi, or Cat Alley! Cat lovers should definitely take a walk here and enjoy the fun of looking for cats. Along both sides of the winding path are many adorable cat-shaped stones, painted stone slabs, and other creations hidden throughout the alleys and corners. Every discovery brings an involuntary smile. You may also unexpectedly encounter real cats along the way. Some are friendly and outgoing, while others are aloof and proud, as if welcoming travelers at their own pace.

Along the way, you can also visit the Onomichi City Museum of Art, an art space tucked away in Senkoji Park and designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando. The clean, minimalist architecture complements the surrounding natural scenery, and simply admiring the building is satisfying. The museum is also known for the adorable, years-long back-and-forth between Ken-chan, a black cat, and a security guard, which adds a heartwarming and amusing charm to the place. During this visit, I happened to catch an exhibition of Utagawa Hiroshige's complete series The Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido, which was another unexpected surprise.

From the magnificent mountain and sea views from the ropeway and the charming atmosphere of the hillside alleys to the leisurely moments filled with cats and art, Onomichi always moves me in unexpected ways. I'm sure I'll return to this captivating town again soon to search once more for the surprises hidden around each corner!

Ginza is a shopping paradise where many visitors love to browse and shop. After you've finished shopping and your feet are tired, consider taking a walk in nearby Hibiya Park. It's within walking distance of Ginza, so you can easily find yourself in this urban oasis while exploring the area. Each season has its own charm. In spring, you can enjoy soft pink cherry blossoms, while in fall, golden ginkgo leaves and colorful maple leaves decorate the park, creating different scenery as the seasons change. Sometimes it's nice to do nothing at all and simply sit quietly on a park bench, watching people pass by and children play while enjoying the afternoon sun.

In the early morning, the lake was covered in a thin mist, and the chilly air made me instinctively tuck my neck into my collar, as if the lake were veiled in mystery. After waiting for quite a while, the sun finally began to peek out. The morning mist slowly lifted with the light, and the lake and mountains gradually came into view. Ducks swam leisurely across the water, creating an exceptionally peaceful and soothing scene. Kinrin Lake is said to have gotten its name from the way fish scales shimmer gold when the setting sun shines on the water. Also, hot spring water and fresh water flow into the lake from below, so the water stays relatively warm in fall and winter, making it easy for dreamy morning mist to form—one of the lake's special features. There is also Cafe La Ruche by the lake, where you can sit down with a cup of coffee and enjoy the view outside. Set aside one or two hours for a leisurely walk and some photos, and enjoy the relaxing time without rushing to your next stop~