[Complete Guide to Kumihimo] The World of Kumihimo, Filled with Japanese Aesthetics

The exact origins of kumihimo are unknown. As for cords in general, when did humans first begin using them? In Japan, it is said to date back to the Jomon period. At first, cords were used to tie wood and stone together as tools for catching prey. Whenever people made a new tool, cords were essential, and they were indispensable for the development of tools. However, from a functional standpoint, cords did not develop dramatically after that. As decoration, though, they underwent various changes. The earliest use of cords as decoration is thought to have been in the Jomon period (Approx. 13,000 to Approx. 2,300 years ago). It is believed to have begun with rope made from two bundles of thread, used to create patterns on Jomon pottery. Haniwa clay figures from the Kofun period are decorated with what appear to be simple kumihimo-like ornaments on their clothing. From this, it can be inferred that ancient people likely incorporated kumihimo into clothing decoration. Looking around the world, traces of cord use have also been found in the Inca Empire.

In the Asuka and Nara periods, complex and advanced kumihimo techniques were introduced from continental China along with Buddhism. In portraits of Prince Shotoku from the Asuka period, kumihimo is depicted as the cord used to hang a sword from the waist. It seems that threads dyed in red, purple, yellow-green, light brown, dark brown, and navy were braided in a plain-weave-like structure to create symmetrical patterns. Because it was incorporated into the decoration of men’s accessories, kumihimo became highly valued in many settings during this period when Buddhist culture flourished, from tying sutra scrolls to adorning Buddhist ritual objects. Kumihimo from this period is thought to have had strong religious significance. This is because kumihimo used in Buddhist culture carried the meaning of “tying and protecting sacred things.”

In the Heian period, as court culture flourished, the kumihimo techniques brought from the continent were refined with a uniquely Japanese elegance. More complex braiding methods were developed, auspicious patterns were created, and multicolored dyed cords appeared. Aristocrats used kumihimo chosen for its braiding styles and colors to decorate crowns and garments. It was also used as decorative cord for furnishings.

From the Kamakura period onward, when samurai ruled the country, kumihimo became inseparable from arms and armor. Because it offered excellent elasticity and durability, it spread widely and was put to practical use. For example, it was used for tsukamaki, wrapping the sword hilt with kumihimo to improve grip and secure armor, and for sageo, the cord used to keep the sword from slipping out. It was also used as odoshi, connecting different parts of armor while allowing movement. In this way, it became mainly an accessory for arms and armor, and its colors also became more subdued.

Today, there are around 100 types of designs for hand-braided kumihimo, known as tegumi, but the basic structures that form the foundation of these techniques were already completed by the Muromachi period, and kumihimo is still made based on those techniques today.

By the late Edo period, Japanese-style obi belts had taken on their current form, and kumihimo came to be used as obijime and obidome. It spread not only among samurai but also among common people. In other words, it became part of everyday clothing. Specialized kumihimo artisans also appeared, and distinctive local styles of kumihimo were born in different regions.

Today, while the tradition continues to be passed down as a traditional craft, kumihimo is used not only for obijime and obidome but also for fashion accessories such as straps and bracelets. Even now, new designs are being pursued while carrying on tradition.

This knot is inspired by the plum blossom.
It evokes the firm shape of a plum flower, and once tied, it does not easily come undone.
For that reason, it symbolizes a strong bond.
Because plum blossoms bloom after enduring the harsh cold of winter, it also carries the meaning of improving one’s fate.
In addition, plum is believed to have protective power against evil, so this knot also has the meaning of warding off evil.
It is used for many kinds of celebrations, such as weddings, job celebrations, and housewarmings.

This is one of the knots used to decorate Buddhist altars in a solemn way. It is often seen in temples.
It is considered an auspicious knot.

This is one of the knots known as musubikiri, knots that are difficult to undo once tied, and it is often used for occasions one hopes will not be repeated, such as weddings and celebrations for recovery from illness.
It is said to have been given this name because the loops on both ends of the knot resemble an abalone.
Also, because pulling both ends tightens the knot firmly, it carries the meaning of wishing that the bond will last for a long time.

It was named because the shape of the knot resembles a chrysanthemum flower.
This auspicious decorative knot carries the meaning of long life and longevity.
It is often used as a decorative tassel for kimono jackets, sashes, swords, and bows.

This knot was given its name because it resembles the kanji character for “country.”
With its complex knot structure, it carries meanings such as peace and good fortune. In China, it is called “soui-musubi.”

This is one of the auspicious knots made with the wish that one’s hopes will come true.
When viewed from the front, the knot looks like the character for “mouth,” and from the back, it looks like the character for “ten.”
That is why it came to be called kanau-musubi, using the character 叶. It is used for knots on amulets and wooden prayer tags received at shrines and temples.

This knot was named because it resembles the shape of a turtle’s shell.
Since ancient times, turtles have been symbols of longevity. For that reason, this knot carries meanings such as wishing for long life and hoping things will continue for a long time. At New Year, it is used to decorate kadomatsu and kagami mochi.

This knot was introduced to Japan along with Buddhism. It is said to lead all things to happiness through the power of the Buddha.
It is used decoratively for ornaments on keman Buddhist fittings and for cords on the chest area of dolls.
It also carries meanings such as tying the bond between husband and wife and forming connections.

This is one of the decorative knots handed down since ancient times. Its meaning changes depending on the shape of the knot.

It is also sometimes used for wedding celebrations.

This knot is used for the decorative tassels on the kesa robes worn by Buddhist monks.
It carries the meaning of tying and securing something in order to carefully protect sacred sutras.
It also has an auspicious meaning, such as strengthening bonds.

At Showen Kumihimo, tied kumihimo items are sold as products.
All of this knotting work is done entirely by hand by artisans.

There are said to be around 10 artisans in charge of in-house finishing, and that number alone is not enough to keep up with producing thousands or tens of thousands of items a year.
So since the company’s founding, around 60 artisans in Uji alone have done kumihimo knotting work from home as subcontracted piecework.
The entire town of Uji helps make these handmade products possible, and thanks to this production system, they are able to achieve high-quality manufacturing even in small lots.
Knowing that each item is handmade makes you feel even more attached to the products.
You can also buy just the kumihimo cord itself and tie it into any form you like to make something of your own.

These pure silk straps come in a variety of colors and designs.
Especially popular as souvenirs, they can be called one of Showen Kumihimo’s signature accessories. They can be used not only as decorations for mobile phones, but also for bags, canes, keys, USB drives, and more. Available in 10 design types, including natural dye, amulet, chirimen, Edo-uchi, yagasuri, silk gloss, ayakourai, cubic, yotsugumi, and urakin, and in 5 to 11 colors for each style, these straps are distinguished by the gorgeous luxury of silk.

This is another very popular item. Making the most of the qualities of cord, these products are characterized by the luster and lightness unique to silk. Because they are made of silk, they feel soft and gentle against the skin when worn around the neck, reducing unnecessary strain on the shoulders and neck.
They are made in four braiding styles, kakuhachi, yattsugumi, kara-uchi, and yotsugumi, and are available in 3 to 6 colors.

These shoelaces made from kumihimo are recommended for anyone who wants to make their favorite sneakers more stylish. They were developed into a product after more than a year of repeated trial and error, experimenting with adding texture to the cord, making it softer, and changing its width. They also make a great gift for people who are particular about their shoes.

This card case is based on the traditional and elegant Japanese color-layering culture known as kasane no irome, created by Heian aristocrats. Artisans carefully handcraft each one by sewing together glossy kumihimo called yamato-gumi. With its rich three-dimensional texture, it is an item that feels wonderfully warm and substantial.

The items introduced here are just a few examples, and there are many more attractive kumihimo accessories to discover.
After trying the kumihimo-making experience, be sure to do some shopping for yourself or for souvenirs for family and friends!