Kimono, Clothing Filled with the Traditional Beauty and Culture of Japan

Kimono, Clothing Filled with the Traditional Beauty and Culture of Japan

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Written by :  GOOD LUCK TRIP

Kimono, Japan’s traditional attire, is now known around the world as “KIMONO.”
With vivid colors inspired by the changing seasons and designs showcasing refined craftsmanship, every detail reflects a distinctly Japanese aesthetic.
Its classical beauty, passed down through generations, is also part of its appeal.
This article explains the history and types of kimono, as well as the meaning behind their formality and patterns.
As your interest in kimono grows, so will your understanding of Japanese culture, so be sure to read to the end.

Kimono, Japan’s Traditional Clothing

The word kimono literally means “something to wear,” and originally it was a general term referring to clothing as a whole.
After “Western clothing (yofuku)” was introduced to Japan in the Meiji period (1868–1912), the meaning gradually came to be understood as “Japanese clothing.”
By the way, wafuku was coined as the opposite of yofuku, or Western clothing.
Today, everyday clothing is generally called yofuku, while wafuku, or traditional Japanese clothing, is called kimono.
Also, gofuku, which originated in China, refers to clothing made from silk, and originally it was completely different from kimono.
However, the boundary is now vague, and in many cases the term is used in much the same way as kimono.

Today, kimono refers to traditional Japanese clothing
Today, kimono refers to traditional Japanese clothing

The Difference Between Kimono and Yukata

Yukata is a type of kimono, and its shape and appearance are also similar.
The simple differences between them are summarized in the table below.

- Kimono Yukata
When worn Formal clothing worn throughout the year Casual clothing mainly worn in summer
Occasions Weddings, Hatsumode, ceremonies, etc. Summer festivals, fireworks festivals, everyday wear, etc.
Material Made from multiple materials, mainly formal pure silk, as well as cotton and linen Made from breathable, moisture-absorbing materials such as cotton, linen, and polyester
How it is worn Uses a wide obi belt, requires accessories such as obiage and obijime, and takes time to put on Usually unlined, and many are easy even for beginners to tie
Footwear Worn with tabi socks and zori sandals Worn barefoot with geta sandals
Yukata are often worn at festivals and hot spring destinations
Yukata are often worn at festivals and hot spring destinations

The Difference Between Kimono and Furisode

Furisode, which is included as a type of kimono, refers to a gorgeous outfit worn by unmarried women.
Its defining feature is its long sleeves, measuring 60 cm to 120 cm, which make its shape quite different from other kimono.
The long sleeves symbolize the beauty and elegance of young women, and furisode is often worn for special occasions such as Coming of Age Day ceremonies and weddings.
The longer the sleeves, the higher the formality, and based on sleeve length, furisode is divided into three types: large, medium, and small.
In addition, many accessories such as the obi and layered collar are used to enhance its beauty and bring out each wearer’s individuality.

Furisode, a glamorous kimono worn by unmarried women
Furisode, a glamorous kimono worn by unmarried women

The History and Evolution of Kimono

Kimono have changed form over time, but they have always played an important role in Japanese culture.
Let’s look at the history and evolution of kimono, which continue to be loved by many people today. Since there are various theories about this history and development, please keep in mind that what follows is just one interpretation.

The Origins of Kimono Trace Back to Before the Common Era

The prototype of kimono is said to date back to the Yayoi period (around the 10th century BCE to around the middle of the 3rd century CE).
At that time, men wore kanpui, which involved wrapping cloth around the body, while women wore poncho-style kantoi garments, and these later evolved into clothing resembling pants and skirts to suit the era and climate.
In the Asuka period (592–710) and Nara period (710–794), when a clear class system was established, kosode was used as clothing for commoners and as undergarments for the upper classes.

An image of the Yayoi period, when garments that became the prototype of kimono were worn
An image of the Yayoi period, when garments that became the prototype of kimono were worn

The Heian Period, When Kimono Culture Greatly Developed

In the Heian period (794–1185), kimono culture underwent major changes.
As various types of kimono were made using a technique called straight-line cutting, they became established in everyday life.
A sense of color and harmony also developed, and a culture of enjoying layered clothing and color combinations was born.
Garments worn by the upper classes were called osode, and their color schemes and designs also served as a status symbol showing rank.
The junihitoe, made by layering many colorful osode, is probably the best-known symbol of this.

The beautifully colored junihitoe, made by layering kosode and osode
The beautifully colored junihitoe, made by layering kosode and osode

The Kamakura and Muromachi Periods, When the Word Kimono Was Born

During the Kamakura period (1185–1333) and Muromachi period (1333–1573), men also came to wear ornate kimono under the influence of samurai society.
At the same time, women’s kimono became simpler, and the idea that “kosode = kimono” spread widely.
This is when the word kimono was born, and it has continued in use to the present day.

Men’s attire using vividly colored fabrics
Men’s attire using vividly colored fabrics

The Edo Period, When Kimono Spread Among Commoners

In the Edo period (1603–1868), kimono spread beyond the upper classes.
However, since restrictions were placed on materials and colors according to social status, the differences between the wealthy and the common classes became quite noticeable.
It is said that commoners then began to enjoy fashion by putting effort into patterns, obi tying styles, and other details.
Expressing individuality and identity through original styling may feel similar to modern fashion as well.

An image of kimono worn by women in the Edo period
An image of kimono worn by women in the Edo period

Kimono Became Clothing for Ceremonial Occasions After the Meiji Period

From the Meiji period onward, when Japan was strongly influenced by Western culture, “Western clothing” gradually spread, also due to the issuance of the Clothing Edict.
At first, many people still spent their days in kimono, but after World War II, Western clothing became the main form of everyday wear.
As a result, kimono came to be seen as clothing for special occasions, leading to the modern understanding of them as traditional Japanese attire.

Under the influence of Western culture, Western clothing gradually came to be worn in Japan as well
Under the influence of Western culture, Western clothing gradually came to be worn in Japan as well

Do Japanese People Today Wear Kimono?

Today, Japanese people are overwhelmingly more likely to wear kimono for major life milestones and events such as Coming of Age Day ceremonies, weddings, and graduation ceremonies.
They are also favored for occasions involving traditional Japanese culture, such as tea gatherings, flower arrangement, kabuki, dance, and rakugo storytelling.
Professions in which kimono are worn include proprietresses of traditional Japanese restaurants, maiko/geiko, and Japanese cuisine chefs.
Basically, kimono can be worn in any situation, but opportunities to wear them in everyday life are very rare, and it is not unusual for young people to have never worn one even once.

Today, kimono are worn only in limited situations
Today, kimono are worn only in limited situations

When Kimono Are Worn Depends on Their Formality

Although kimono are spoken of as a single category, there are many kinds, and like Western clothing, they are chosen according to the occasion and purpose.
This is based on a ranking called kakushiki, or formality, which is broadly divided into four categories in order from the highest: first formal wear, semi-formal wear, outing wear, and everyday wear.
Please refer to the table below to see what kinds of situations each is worn in.

Formality
Occasions when worn
First formal wear
Weddings, funerals, official ceremonies, etc.
Semi-formal wear
Parties, entrance ceremonies, Shichi-Go-San, etc.
Outing wear
Tea gatherings, theater outings, stylish wear, etc.
Everyday wear
Daily life, short outings, etc.
A tea gathering in outing wear
A tea gathering in outing wear

Types of Kimono You Should Know to Wear Them Beautifully

As mentioned above, kimono are divided into many types, and each has suitable occasions for wear.
To wear an appropriate kimono beautifully for the occasion, knowledge of its formality and features is necessary.
Here, we will explain 11 representative types for your reference.

1. Uchikake

Uchikake is one of the bridal garments worn mainly by brides at weddings and belongs to first formal wear.
It is characterized by luxurious embroidery and elaborate patterns covering the whole garment, creating a sense of traditional beauty.
It is said to have originated from outer garments worn by samurai women in the Muromachi period for protection against the cold.
There are two types, shiromuku and iro-uchikake; the former is generally worn for the ceremony, and the latter for the wedding reception.

Shiromuku worn for the wedding ceremony
Shiromuku worn for the wedding ceremony

2. Kuromontsuki

Kuromontsuki is one of the first formal kimono mainly worn for funerals and memorial services.
It can be worn by unmarried and married people alike, regardless of gender, though today it is often associated more strongly with men and is also called kuromofuku.
It features five family crests on an all-black fabric, placed on the back, both sides of the chest, and both sleeves, symbolizing family and lineage.
When worn, it is generally paired with a black fukuro obi and black accessories.

Formal wear worn by both men and women
Formal wear worn by both men and women

3. Furisode

Furisode is one of the first formal kimono worn by unmarried women.
It is characterized by long sleeves measuring about 75 cm to 113 cm, and it comes in many varieties with colorful designs.
Depending on sleeve length, it is divided into ofurisode, chufurisode, and kofurisode, and each is used for different occasions.
Generally speaking, ofurisode is used as bridal wear, chufurisode for Coming of Age Day ceremonies and weddings, and kofurisode for everyday events.

Furisode with a wide variety of colors and patterns
Furisode with a wide variety of colors and patterns

4. Kurotomesode

Kurotomesode is one of the highest-ranking first formal kimono worn by married women.
Like kuromontsuki, it features five crests on black fabric, and its distinguishing feature is an ehaba pattern, a design that forms a single picture when spread out, drawn along the hem.
It is often worn by the mother of the bride or groom, or by the wife of a matchmaker, mainly at formal occasions such as weddings and receptions.

Kurotomesode worn at formal celebratory occasions
Kurotomesode worn at formal celebratory occasions

5. Irotomesode

Irotomesode is basically the same as kurotomesode, except that the base color is dyed in a color other than black.
There are colorful varieties ranging from warm tones to cool tones, and the impression it gives changes depending on the base color.
There are no strict rules for choosing one, so it is selected based on personal taste, age, relationship to the family, and other factors.
Its formality also changes depending on the number of crests: five crests indicate first formal wear, while three or one crest indicates semi-formal wear.
It is often worn by unmarried women who are close relatives at weddings and receptions.
Semi-formal styles are also suitable for occasions such as parties and celebratory gatherings.

Kimono are often coordinated with seasonal colors and patterns
Kimono are often coordinated with seasonal colors and patterns

6. Homongi

Homongi is semi-formal wear worn widely in settings ranging from formal to casual, regardless of age or marital status.
Its defining feature is the flowing ehaba pattern drawn from the shoulders down to the hem.
Because its level of formality can be adjusted by the presence of a crest and by the pattern, it is highly versatile and is worn for a variety of occasions, including weddings, miyamairi shrine visits for newborns, Shichi-Go-San, entrance ceremonies, and tea gatherings.

Homongi worn in a wide range of situations
Homongi worn in a wide range of situations

7. Tsukesage

Tsukesage is semi-formal wear made with more understated patterns, toning down the glamorous impression of homongi.
It often features a one-point motif on the left shoulder, and all the patterns face upward without crossing the seams.
Another feature is its flexibility in styling, as the choice of obi can make it suitable for either formal or casual occasions.
It is used by people of all ages for occasions such as entrance and graduation ceremonies, as well as outings like theater visits and meals.

Tsukesage with a gorgeous design on the left shoulder
Tsukesage with a gorgeous design on the left shoulder

8. Iromuji

Iromuji is plain semi-formal wear made by dyeing white fabric a single color other than black.
It gives a simple and understated overall impression, and its formality changes depending on the presence and number of crests.
When it has one or more crests, it is worn for formal occasions such as weddings and Shichi-Go-San, while without a crest it is worn as outing wear for casual settings such as meals and lessons.

Iromuji with a clean and simple impression
Iromuji with a clean and simple impression

9. Komon

Komon is everyday wear covered with fine patterns and motifs all over.
With a wide variety of dyeing techniques and designs, it allows you to casually enjoy the elegance and brilliance of kimono.
It is suitable for occasions when you want to dress up a little, such as concerts and shopping, as well as casual weddings.
However, because the atmosphere changes greatly depending on the pattern and design, it is better to consider the occasion, season, and your age when choosing one.

A lightweight summer-style komon
A lightweight summer-style komon

10. Tsumugi

Tsumugi is everyday wear woven from tsumugi yarn, made by spinning floss silk from broken cocoons.
It is one of Japan’s traditional textiles and has also been designated an Important Intangible Cultural Property.
Because the yarn is twisted by hand, its thickness is uneven, creating a distinctive texture and soft fullness that make it especially appealing.
Its production methods also carry unique techniques and histories, and its individual character appears in designs that reflect local culture and natural surroundings.
It is durable and practical, and is often worn in daily life and for light outings.

Tsumugi, which carries on traditional Japanese craftsmanship
Tsumugi, which carries on traditional Japanese craftsmanship

11. Yukata

Yukata is the most casual and popular summer everyday wear among kimono.
It is worn by both men and women as event clothing for occasions such as fireworks festivals and summer festivals, and it fits naturally into everyday life.
It is made of light fabric with excellent breathability and moisture absorption, and is characterized by bright, summery patterns.
Because it is also very easy to put on, it can be enjoyed in a wide range of styles.

Yukata are often seen at summer events
Yukata are often seen at summer events

Meanings and Wishes Behind Kimono Patterns

Kimono feature a wide variety of patterns, and each one carries a clear meaning or wish, such as happiness or longevity.
Here, we will introduce five representative patterns.
If you pay attention not only to the design but also to the pattern itself, you may discover a different kind of enjoyment.

1. Shochikubai

Shochikubai is a pattern symbolizing longevity, vitality, and purity.
It combines pine, which stays green even in winter, bamboo, which grows straight, and plum, which blooms early in spring.
Because these plants endure the winter cold, they are also called the “Three Friends of Winter,” and in Japan this has been a beloved traditional design since the Muromachi period.
Known as an auspicious motif, it is favored for the New Year and celebratory occasions.

The shochikubai pattern, suitable for celebratory occasions
The shochikubai pattern, suitable for celebratory occasions

2. Mari

Mari is a spherical pattern based on temari handballs, and it carries wishes for a good marriage, family harmony, and a happy life that continues on.
The long thread used to make temari also has the meaning of “tying bonds” and “connecting ties.”
It is often used for girls’ festive kimono, celebratory wear, and as a protective motif for married women.
Because mari were also playthings of aristocrats in the Heian period, the pattern has a noble image and is favored for its elegance as well.

Mari balls, once used as playthings by aristocrats
Mari balls, once used as playthings by aristocrats

3. Sakura

Sakura is a pattern associated with abundant harvests, prosperity, and richness.
Because it buds in spring, it is considered auspicious and is favored for many occasions, including Coming of Age Day ceremonies that celebrate a new beginning.
Its gorgeous and beautiful design is also extremely popular, and it comes in many variations, such as full-bloom sakura, fluttering petals, and combinations with other motifs.

A sakura pattern with a soft impression
A sakura pattern with a soft impression

4. Kumihimo

Kumihimo is a pattern made by intricately braiding together multiple threads such as raw silk, silk thread, and gold or silver thread.
It requires delicate craftsmanship, and the combinations of colors and braiding methods create a wide variety of designs and distinctive textures.
Its decorative beauty enhances the splendor of kimono and creates a timeless charm.
Derived from the idea of “tying together,” it has many interpretations, such as connecting men and women, linking people, and continuity, but it strongly carries spiritual meanings such as bonds and ties.

Kumihimo, where you can feel traditional Japanese beauty
Kumihimo, where you can feel traditional Japanese beauty

5. Kikko Pattern

The kikko pattern is a geometric design made by arranging hexagons continuously.
It is one of the auspicious motifs symbolizing longevity and prosperity, and its orderly beauty is striking.
It was named because the hexagons resemble a turtle’s shell, and there are many variations such as komochi kikko and Bishamon kikko.
It is especially favored for celebratory occasions such as miyamairi and weddings.

The kikko pattern, also used on zori sandals for girls celebrating Shichi-Go-San
The kikko pattern, also used on zori sandals for girls celebrating Shichi-Go-San

Features of Men’s Kimono

Kimono can be worn regardless of gender, but there are several differences between men’s and women’s styles.
In general, women’s kimono come in a wider variety and are more difficult to put on.
The other differences are summarized in the table below, so please use it as a reference.

- Men’s kimono Women’s kimono
Design Often plain or with understated patterns Often have bright colors and bold patterns
Collar Worn close to the neck Worn to show the back of the neck
Length Made to match the wearer’s height Made longer than the wearer’s height
Ohashori (folded-over section) Basically not made Adjusted in length to fit the body line
Sleeves Sewn closed Have an opening under the arm (miyatsukuchi)
Obi Narrower and relatively simple Wider, with many varieties
Position of the obi Around the lower abdomen Just below the chest
Accessories Nagajuban, undergarments, zori, tabi Nagajuban, undergarments, zori, tabi, obijime, koshihimo, collar stiffener, etc.

These differences have evolved over time based on differences in male and female body shape as well as traditional and social roles.
Today, it is generally considered fine to wear kimono designed for the opposite sex as long as the size fits and the occasion is appropriate.

Men’s kimono have various differences from women’s kimono
Men’s kimono have various differences from women’s kimono

Kimono Wearing Basics to Keep in Mind

A simple overview of how to wear kimono is summarized in the table below.
For detailed steps, please learn by watching videos or seeing the process in person through kimono shop websites and dressing classes.
It may be difficult at first, but once you get the hang of it, anyone can wear kimono beautifully.

1. Prepare in advance
Wash your hands, keep yourself clean, and gather the accessories and other items needed for dressing
2. Put on tabi
To avoid the kimono coming undone, put on tabi first
3. Put on undergarments
Wear what suits you best, such as a slip, camisole, or tank top
4. Adjust your shape
Adjust your shape so that the chest, stomach area, and hips are flat overall
※Placing a towel in the hollow of the waist can help create a cleaner finish
5. Put on the nagajuban
Put on the nagajuban and arrange the collar in the correct position
6. Put on the kimono
After putting on the kimono, align the center back seam, use a collar clip, and adjust the front and back hems to an appropriate length
7. Secure it with a koshihimo
Use a koshihimo sash to secure the kimono and create the ohashori fold
8. Tie the obi
Wrap and tie the obi, and if necessary, decorate with an obijime cord and obiage sash
9. Final check, done
Adjust the position of the kimono and obi, smooth out wrinkles, arrange the accessories, and you are done

If You Want to Enjoy Kimono Easily, Use a Kimono Rental Shop

There are kimono rental shops all across Japan, making it easy to enjoy traditional Japanese clothing even without the items or knowledge needed for dressing yourself.
Basically, the shop prepares everything you need, so one major advantage is that you can simply go there on the day and get dressed right away.
You can choose your favorite kimono from a wide range of designs, colors, and sizes, and also coordinate it to suit your event.
Another highlight is that professionals will dress you beautifully so it stays neat and does not come undone.
When you visit Japan, be sure to try using a kimono rental service.
However, because prices, kimono types, and services differ by shop, it is recommended to check the official website and social media in advance.

At a kimono rental shop, professionals can dress you in kimono
At a kimono rental shop, professionals can dress you in kimono

FAQ about Kimono

Q

What is the difference between kimono and yukata?

A

Yukata is a type of kimono and the most casual summer everyday wear. People of all genders and ages often wear it at summer events.

Q

What is the difference between kimono and furisode?

A

Furisode is a type of kimono and one of the first formal kimono worn by unmarried women. Its defining feature is its long sleeves.

Q

Are there kimono for men?

A

Yes. Compared with women’s kimono, they are often simpler and have more understated patterns.

Summary

In this article, we have introduced the history and types of kimono, along with the meanings behind their designs and formality.
Kimono, which allow you to experience Japanese culture and tradition, are garments that symbolize Japan’s sense of beauty.
As you learn more, your interest will likely grow, and you may start to feel that you want to try wearing one at least once.
When you travel to Japan, make an opportunity to wear a kimono and capture the look in photos.