A Complete Guide to Enjoying Washi, Japan’s World-Class Traditional Paper We Want to Preserve for the Future

Washi refers to paper traditionally made in Japan since ancient times.
Since the Meiji era, the term “washi” has been used for Japanese-made paper produced using traditional Japanese methods, in contrast to “yoshi” (Western paper), which was introduced from Europe, America, and elsewhere.
Today, paper in Japan is broadly divided into these two types: washi and Western paper. Washi is made from the bark of plants such as kozo, mitsumata, and gampi. It refers to paper made by pulping and forming these materials.
In traditional production, hand papermaking, in which each sheet is made one by one by hand, was the mainstream, but in the 1900s, machine-made washi also began to be produced. In hand papermaking, a tool called a “su” is used to make each sheet one by one with the nagashi-zuki technique. The fibers become intricately intertwined, resulting in high-quality, durable paper that is also flexible.
However, because it is handmade, there are also drawbacks: size is limited, production takes time, prices are higher, and quality can vary. Machine-made washi is produced on a conveyor-belt system and wound into rolls. The fibers tend to align in the direction the belt moves, making the paper strong vertically but weaker horizontally. Because it can be mass-produced with consistent quality, it is more affordable.
Western paper, on the other hand, is made mainly from wood and produced by machine. Japan’s first Western paper mill was established in the early Meiji era. As technology advanced, paper was mass-produced and inexpensive paper became widely available on the market.

One theory says that the culture of making paper came to Japan around the Asuka period.
According to the Nihon Shoki, in 610 a monk from Goguryeo made paper, using the tame-zuki technique that creates thick paper, and ink. However, there is also a theory that papermaking technology existed in Japan even before that. Later, the practice of copying sutras spread, which increased the production of paper for sutra transcription.
In the Nara period, paper production increased for use in official records such as family registers, although paper was still considered a precious commodity. In the Heian period, paper spread mainly among the aristocracy, who used it to write poetry. It was during this time that the nagashi-zuki technique, which made it possible to produce thin paper, was perfected.
In the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, samurai also began using paper, and papermaking spread throughout Japan. Paper also came to be used for gifts. In the Edo period, paper became common among ordinary people as well, and was used in daily life for hanshi, shoji paper, tissue paper, and more, leading to a major increase in production.
Newspapers also appeared in the late Edo period. In the early Meiji period, banknotes and textbooks were made from washi, and machine-made washi was developed, but as Western paper from Europe and America entered Japan, paper consumed in Japan gradually shifted from washi to Western paper.

The plants generally used as raw materials for washi are kozo, mitsumata, and gampi, all plants that have long been found in Japan. The inner bark beneath the outer bark is used. In addition to these three, some washi also uses wood pulp, bamboo, or pineapple.

There is a facility in Kyoto where you can try making washi. It is a 9-minute walk from Hankyu Karasuma Station.
It is “Kami TO Wa” in Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto City.

When you step into this renovated Kyoto townhouse shop, one of the first things you’ll notice is the neat display of washi goods and goshuin books.
The washi items include handmade washi postcards, letter paper, gift envelopes, and tape made from washi.
There are many items that would make great souvenirs.

The goshuin books sold here are also made of washi, not only inside but even on the covers.

Some even have different washi patterns on the front and back covers.
There are so many designs to choose from that it is hard to decide, including animals such as Japanese cranes, snow rabbits, and beckoning cats, as well as cherry blossoms and auspicious traditional Japanese patterns. Just shopping for these washi goods is enjoyable enough, but this facility offers an even more special experience. You can make B4-size paper from washi raw materials and turn it into postcards, lamp shades, tapestries, or even a goshuin book.

Originally founded in 1932 in Higashiosaka, Osaka, Kurauchi Co., Ltd., a paper wholesaler engaged in washi sales, washi workshops, and the planning, production, and sale of paper-related products, launched the washi workshop “Kami TO Wa” in 2017.
The idea came from wanting more people to discover the appeal of paper at a time when digitalization was accelerating the move away from it. Mr. and Mrs. Hayashi, who run the shop, carefully teach visitors how to make paper. Before starting the workshops, they visited many papermaking regions across Japan, including Echizen, Tokushima, and Kochi.
The workshop takes Approx. 1 hour. You can take your finished piece home with you, making it a truly special memory. There are four classes a day, with up to six people per class, so you can enjoy the experience at a relaxed pace while receiving careful instruction.
You can join in Japanese or English. It is very popular with visitors from the U.S., Australia, Europe, Taiwan, and China, and apparently 80% of participants are international tourists. Solo travelers are of course welcome, and couples, families, and friends can all enjoy trying this traditional Japanese craft of washi making!
Anyone from children to seniors can take part.

After checking in for the experience, you will get a quick explanation of how papermaking works.
First, you learn that the essential raw material for making washi is a plant called kozo.
Washi is made using the bark of this kozo plant. You will also get to see actual kozo branches.

It feels surprisingly thin for something so long. The bark of the kozo is steamed for about 3 hours to make it easier to peel. After each piece is carefully peeled by hand, the bark is dried. Then it is boiled again for about 3 hours, washed, and beaten to break down the fibers.

Inside the vat is a well-mixed combination of the beaten fibers, water, and a sticky liquid called neri.

Neri plays an essential supporting role in washi making. It is a sticky mucilage extracted from the root of a plant called tororo-aoi. Adding neri slows the speed at which water passes through the mesh, allowing the fibers to disperse evenly. This makes the paper easier to form and helps create a cleaner finish.

Then, after hearing a simple explanation of the papermaking flow, you get to try making it yourself.

1. Place the wooden frame called a “sukiwaku” vertically into the vat so that it is perpendicular to the water surface.
The warm, slightly sticky water feels strange in a fascinating way. You can feel the soft, fluffy fibers.

Once the wooden frame is in the vat, pull it toward you and scoop it up. Because the water is sticky, it is surprisingly heavy. The key is to hold the frame firmly so it does not shift as you lift it!
After scooping, shake it in the order of vertical, vertical, horizontal, horizontal to spread the material evenly. Shaking it both vertically and horizontally helps the fibers interlock, so take your time and move it slowly without rushing. Repeat this once more. On the second time, the water feels even heavier, so be careful that the frame does not slip.
Mr. Hayashi will support and guide you, so do not worry if you make a mistake!

2. Once the paper has been formed, the next step is to decorate it freely with pressed flowers.
There are leaves as well as colorful flowers such as cherry blossoms and dandelions.

The day we visited was in autumn, so there were fallen leaves and red maple leaves.
Apparently, the types of pressed flowers change a little with the season. You can really feel the richness of Japan’s four seasons through them. You can use all of the pressed flowers if you like, or just pick the ones you like best.
The key point is that afterward, the sheet of paper will be cut vertically and horizontally into four equal parts. Be careful not to place pressed flowers where the cuts will be.

Thinking about the balance of the plants and flowers, and deciding whether to keep it simple or make it bold, you place the pressed flowers with tweezers.
After decorating, you can also use a brush to add gold powder!

When gold powder was added to the red-dyed leaves, it gave them a sparkling accent. Of course, it is also fine not to use any gold powder at all. Design it however you like!

After that, a sheet of paper called tengujo is placed on top, and a brush is gently stroked from the center outward to remove air bubbles.

3. Next comes the final step. The sheet is covered with nonwoven fabric and placed in a dehydrator.

After dehydration, the washi is attached to a board-style dryer and dried.
Then all you need to do is wait about 10 minutes for it to dry. While it dries, you watch a video to learn the process of how washi is made.

4. Once the washi is fully dry, it is cut into four equal parts. Fold it once vertically and once horizontally, then use a brush to apply water to the folded lines.
If you wet it thoroughly, the paper will tear neatly along those folded lines.
Looking at the torn edges, you can see fine fibers sticking out, which really reminds you that paper is made of fibers.

Your one-of-a-kind original washi is complete!

You can also use a brush to add your name here in Japanese or katakana.
Of course, Mr. Hayashi will show you how to write it. You can take your finished washi home as a keepsake, and after returning home, you can even display it in a postcard-size frame in your room. Or you can go to a nearby post office and send it just as it is as a postcard from Japan to a friend back home.

After the papermaking experience, it takes about 10 minutes for the washi to dry.
During that time, you can watch a video and learn about the steps involved in making washi.
You can see how washi is made in winter in Gokayama, Toyama Prefecture, one of Japan’s major washi-producing regions. You can also learn about the history of washi, including the fact that washi made in Gokayama for more than 600 years is strong and flexible enough to be used for most daily items, and that until around 1955, papermaking was done in nearly every household in the area.
You also realize just how many steps are required to make a single sheet of washi and how much time and effort goes into it, making you want to value washi more instead of thinking of it as just ordinary paper.

The completed washi can also be turned into a tapestry or lamp shade (additional time required: 15 minutes), or a goshuin book (additional time required: 45 minutes).

Since extra time is needed, it is recommended that you let them know in advance what you would like to make when making your reservation.

You can also make a goshuin book using colorful washi crafted by artisans, like the ones sold at this facility.
You can choose from Approx. 100 patterns of washi. The paper used is called yuzen paper, and each sheet is stencil-dyed by hand by an artisan.

This experience is also popular because you can easily make a handmade goshuin book in about 45 minutes. The accordion-folded hosho paper inside has already been prepared by artisans, so all you do is attach your chosen washi to the thick front and back covers and glue in the hosho paper to finish it.
You can take your finished goshuin book home on the spot, so you can immediately head to a nearby shrine or temple and have a goshuin written in it. Kyoto has many shrines and temples, and in recent years some goshuin have become especially colorful and artistic, so take your handmade goshuin book and enjoy visiting shrines and temples to collect them. It is sure to add even more great memories to your time in Japan.

Harvesting takes place around mid-November. The harvested material is cut to about 120 cm, a convenient length for steaming in a kettle. The cut material is tightly tied into bundles with vines from climbing plants.

The kozo is placed in a large kettle and steamed for about 3 hours. It gives off kozo’s distinctive sweet aroma. Once the kozo is fully steamed, plenty of water is poured over it right away. This causes the bark to shrink, making it easier to remove from the trunk.

If the steamed kozo cools down, it becomes harder to peel, so the bark is peeled off by hand from each branch while it is still hot.
Apparently, if you pull the bark downward, it comes off relatively easily.

The bark is dried in the sun in a place with good sunlight and ventilation. This continues until it is completely dry.

A small special blade is used to scrape off the outer bark and the layer beneath it.
If bark remains at this stage, the result will not be good washi, so it is scraped very carefully.

It is then sun-dried for about 2 weeks in a place with good sunlight and ventilation.
Care must be taken to prevent mold. Sunlight bleaches the pigments, gradually turning it white. Up to this point is the processing of the kozo itself.

From here, the actual washi production process begins. The kozo raw material is boiled.
It is placed in a large kettle and boiled for about 2–3 hours with lye or soda ash.
This softens the kozo and makes it easier to remove impurities attached to the fibers.

While carefully checking for knots or damage in the wood, the kozo is soaked in well water and every speck of dust and debris is removed by hand, one by one. To eliminate all debris thoroughly, this process is repeated 2–3 times.
It is very demanding work, but if the debris is not thoroughly removed here, beautiful washi cannot be made.

The fibers are beaten repeatedly with wooden sticks to loosen them into fine strands.

The fibers are dispersed.

The softened fibers and water are placed in a tank and stirred. They are mixed with a tool called a maguwa, which looks like a large comb. If the water and fibers are not thoroughly mixed, the paper will become uneven when formed, so this is one of the steps that must be done carefully. Once well mixed, neri made from tororo-aoi is added and cut through with a stick while mixing.

The pulp in the tank is scooped up with a sugeta and moved back and forth and side to side to interlock the fibers. This scooping and moving process is repeated several times.

The sheets are dehydrated until the moisture content is about 60%, then stacked.

The stacked sheets are peeled off one by one.

The paper is pasted onto warmed iron plates or stainless steel boards and dried.
Once attached, a brush is used to stroke from the inside outward to remove air bubbles.
This also helps remove wrinkles. Drying is completed in a few minutes.

Washi production processes vary depending on the region and the artisan, but in some areas, washi is made through steps like the ones introduced here.
Were you surprised by how many steps there are? Even from this alone, you can see how much time and effort goes into making washi.
When you realize how much work is involved, it also becomes easier to understand why a single sheet can be expensive.