On a slow-paced trip through Kyushu, the most moving experiences are often not the glamorous sights, but the warm moments that span the years and connect the memories of three generations.
Yanagawa’s “donko boats” are truly one of Kyushu’s most iconic heartwarming experiences across generations.
The elderly boatman steered through the waterways with an oar, cheerfully humming the children’s song “Momotaro.” This warmhearted tour, with the boatman “giving it his all,” brought a great sense of comfort and emotion, whether accompanying an elderly family member who was 88 at the time or taking elementary school-aged children.
Even now, my 91-year-old mother still fondly remembers the fun of the boat ride. Pairing it with steamed eel rice (seiro-mushi) makes for the perfect combination at this sightseeing spot.
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Yanagawa is known as the “City of Water,” with its crisscrossing waterways and the historic atmosphere of an old castle town still preserved throughout the city. The one thing you shouldn’t miss here is a ride on a traditional riverboat. Sitting in a small boat, you slowly make your way through the waterways with the boatman while taking in the scenery along the banks and the historic streets. As the boat gently moves along, a light breeze blows across the water and through the trees. The entire ride is very leisurely and relaxing, allowing you to fully appreciate the unique natural charm of this historic town.
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We came to Yanagawa in Fukuoka, Kyushu, to ride the famous wooden boat on the “kawakudari” river cruise! Sitting in the boat as it drifted along the old moat, we enjoyed the shade of the lush trees on both sides and the very peaceful, pleasant scenery.
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You definitely have to experience a boat ride in Yanagawa. Once you get on the small boat, you slowly make your way along the waterways, and it feels completely different from exploring the sights on foot.
Along the way, you can enjoy the waterways and streetscapes on both sides. The boatman rows while introducing the scenery, with some fun interactions from time to time. The whole trip has a very relaxed atmosphere. Sitting on the boat with the breeze blowing and watching the scenery slowly pass by feels very leisurely.
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I came to Yanagawa in December, originally thinking the winter scenery might be a little plain. But as I walked along the river, I was surprised to see how beautifully red the willows on both sides were. It felt a little different from the Yanagawa I had imagined. After boarding the riverboat, it slowly made its way along the waterway. We could see many traditional houses and streetscapes on both sides, and occasionally people walking by would wave at the boat.
Although the weather in December was a little cold, sitting on the boat with the breeze and looking at the red willows on both sides actually felt very comfortable. I wasn't rushing to follow a schedule, so I just sat there, took my time, and enjoyed the scenery. It felt like a very fitting way to experience Yanagawa.
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Yanagawa: The Boatman’s Song
After enjoying authentic grilled eel rice and shrimp tempura in Yanagawa, Fukuoka, we boarded a flat-bottomed boat for the famous river cruise. Using only a bamboo pole, the boatman skillfully navigated the old waterways and stone bridges, showing remarkable expertise. The intense summer heat quietly faded amid the shade along the banks, the breeze over the water, and the tranquil scenery.
Most memorable was the boatman’s warm, resonant voice. He sang everything from “Nada Soso” and classic Teresa Teng songs to tunes from “My Neighbor Totoro” and “Doraemon.” As our boat drifted along, his singing filled the journey with joy and emotion. Yanagawa’s beauty lies not only in its picturesque waterways, but also in how the boatman transformed an ordinary cruise into a treasured travel memory with his songs and smile. It became one of the most unforgettable moments of our trip to Kyushu.
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The Yanagawa river boat ride was really relaxing. You just drift along slowly the whole way, and it’s the perfect kind of do-nothing itinerary.
Sometimes the boatman even sings, which adds so much to the atmosphere. -
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The scenery along the canal is really soothing. The pace is genuinely slow, and it totally feels like a small town in Japan.
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Most of the boatmen will sing or give explanations (mainly in Japanese).
Even if you don’t understand, it still feels quite charming.
Rain, extreme heat, or cold will definitely make the experience less enjoyable, especially in summer when it gets so hot you start questioning your life choices. -
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One of my most unforgettable places in Kyushu is Yanagawa, known as the 'City of Water.' The river cruise is about 4 kilometers long. What's special is that the boatman rows the small boat while singing Japanese folk songs... The boatman even does cute and funny gestures, letting you really feel the local culture and the charm of this ancient water town.
When passing under bridges, you have to duck or even lie down to avoid hitting your head on the bridge or branches. It's a really fun Yanagawa boat experience!
After the cruise, I highly recommend trying Yanagawa's famous eel rice at Wakamatsuya, a century-old restaurant. Wakamatsuya has been around since the Ansei era (1854-1859). The rice is steamed to perfection and tastes amazing. When you open the box, you can immediately smell the rich, unique sauce, and the seasoned eel is so flavorful. It's just so delicious! 😋
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