一個漸漸喜歡上慢旅的人's Reviews Page 12/21

The day before we left, I checked and was worried that we might not be able to go up the mountain because of restrictions. Early that morning, we learned that the restrictions had been lifted and the area was open. The surprise of being able to visit the crater of Mount Aso's Nakadake was beyond words.

It was my first time standing this close to the edge of an active volcanic crater. Deep inside the enormous crater, emerald blue-green magma churned and bubbled, while billowing white smoke carried the pungent smell of sulfur. Compared with the tranquil, distant blue of Okama at Mount Zao in Tohoku, which I had visited before, the violently breathing Mount Aso before me felt more like the beating heart of the earth. It was astonishing.

The domed emergency shelters along the trail silently reminded us of nature's unpredictability. Just after we finished marveling at this incredible work of nature, an alarm sounded because the volcanic gas concentration had spiked, and we immediately returned to the visitor center. Looking back as the staff once again put up the barriers and closed the entrance, I felt even more grateful for that brief, fleeting encounter. An active volcanic site that is well worth visiting.

The greatest pleasure of driving around Aso is having the freedom to take in the magnificence of Kusasenri at your own pace. On the mountain road from Komezuka to Kusasenri, be sure not to miss the elevated observation deck along the way. After parking, look down from above to see an entire field of autumn silver grass swaying in the wind, with the smoking crater of Mount Nakadake in the distance. The layered scenery is truly majestic.

After following the mountain road to Kusasenri, I recommend heading straight to the scenic restaurant on the second floor for the local specialty, Aso beef teppanyaki. The tender beef sizzling on the hot plate and its mouthwatering aroma made it the most warm and comforting treat in the autumn breeze.

After your meal, head down to the first floor. Not only are there many high-quality Aso souvenirs and specialty goods to browse, but it is also home to the popular Kusasenri Coffee Roastery. As a coffee lover, of course I couldn't pass it up. I ordered a rich hot latte along with a classic Aso pudding, made with pure Aso milk and featuring a dense, silky-smooth texture. I found a seat by the window and alternated between bites of pudding and sips of coffee while quietly gazing out over the endless autumn wilderness. This encounter with Aso's autumn silver grass in the Land of Fire left me completely satisfied in both body and mind.

Driving along Aso’s winding mountain roads, I rounded a bend when Komezuka suddenly came into view like a giant pudding turned upside down. Its round, adorable volcanic cone shape instantly brought a smile to my face.

Several pullouts have thoughtfully been provided along the road, making it easy to park, get out, and quietly gaze at it. In autumn, Komezuka loses the lush green often seen online, and the entire hill dons a golden coat of Japanese pampas grass. The slightly indented crater at the top takes on a vast, tranquil, and desolate beauty.

It may not have the vitality of summer, but when the autumn wind blows through the golden pampas grass, the vastness and solitude of the landscape feel even more powerful. This autumn encounter, so different from the usual views, had a uniquely enchanting and soothing charm for me.

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine, which became widely known because of the movie Into the Forest of Fireflies' Light, is tucked away in the woods of Minamiaso. This time, we made a special effort to drive from Kumamoto early in the morning and visit before the tour groups arrived, finally getting to enjoy this pure tranquility, as if entering another world, all to ourselves.

The mountain forest was shrouded in a light morning mist. As we slowly followed the approach, nearly a hundred moss-covered stone lanterns and towering cedar trees stood solemnly on both sides, steeped in a profound sense of history. After praying at the simple, unadorned shrine, don't forget to continue up the hillside behind it to see Ugeto Iwa, the legendary stone from mythology. Just as we turned around to head down the mountain, lively tour groups began pouring onto the steps, making us even more grateful that we had arrived early enough to experience that undisturbed, ethereal atmosphere.

After descending the mountain, I recommend stopping by Takamori Dengaku Hozonkai, where you can sit around a traditional sunken hearth and grill local dishes over charcoal. The Aso river fish, slowly grilled over charcoal, had crispy skin and tender meat. Paired with taro and tofu coated in rich miso, the flavors were simple yet unforgettable. When the warm and talkative owner heard that we were from Taiwan, he gave us an especially friendly welcome. As someone who loves food, I picked up a jar of the restaurant's homemade dengaku miso before leaving. Back in Taiwan, I can spread it on ingredients and lightly grill them anytime I want to relive those warm, pure local flavors.

During my trip to Takachiho, I had been deeply disappointed that boating was canceled due to the water level. But then I came to the Amaterasu Railway and was lucky enough to get a seat from the waitlist, boarding the semi-open-air little train that offered the most warmth and emotional fulfillment of the entire trip.

The roofless cars, converted from the old Takachiho Line, slowly made their way into the mountains and dark tunnels amid a gentle breeze and the rumble of the diesel engine. As the train continued to climb and finally stopped in the middle of what was once Japan’s highest railway bridge, the magnificent mountain ranges and deep gorge spread out below us.

The conductor gently turned off the engine and thoughtfully gave everyone plenty of time to take pictures. Even more surprisingly, he brought out a bubble machine and sent sparkling, colorful bubbles out over the incredibly deep gorge. The rainbow-colored bubbles floated on the wind between the blue sky and the railway bridge, as beautiful as a fairy tale.

Perhaps this is exactly what makes travel so captivating: there are unexpected disappointments, but there are always unanticipated surprises as well. The conductor’s sincere, pure, radiant smile remains deeply etched in my heart to this day, warming all my memories of Takachiho.

Takachiho Gorge, formed over tens of thousands of years as lava from Mount Aso was eroded, truly lives up to its reputation as an internationally renowned natural wonder.

Although I had specifically reserved a boat ride online before setting out, it was unfortunately suspended when I arrived due to rising water levels. However, looking out from the elevated gorge trail and slowly experiencing the land on foot instead gave me a different perspective.

Looking down from above, the spectacular basalt columnar joints on both sides rise dozens of meters, straight and steep. Manai Falls, one of Japan's 100 most famous waterfalls, pours down between the cliffs like a ribbon of white silk, sending spray into the air. At noon, sunlight filters through the dense forest and falls on the deep emerald waters of the gorge. With light and shadow intermingling, it looks like a still ink-wash painting. Gazing at it for a long time brought an especially deep sense of peace and restoration to both body and mind.

After marveling at nature's craftsmanship at Takachiho Gorge, I slowly made my way up the forest trail, surrounded by lush greenery on both sides. In about twenty minutes, I reached Takachiho Shrine, hidden deep among the mountains and secluded valleys.

This ancient shrine, with a history spanning over a thousand years, is the center of faith in Takachiho and carries the solemn spiritual atmosphere of the birthplace of Japanese mythology. The most eye-catching sight at the shrine is a pair of enormous married cedars whose roots are closely intertwined and whose trunks tower into the sky. It's said that holding hands with someone special and walking around them three times will bring good relationships and harmony to the family, so of course I made a wish here too.

The traditional kagura performances held here after dark are very famous. Although I didn't have the chance to visit at night this time, walking through the quiet shrine during the day among moss-covered trees towering overhead, closing my eyes, and feeling its calm, pure, and mysterious power was already the deepest kind of cleansing for both body and mind.

Sakurai Futamigaura’s Couple Rocks, ranked among Japan’s 100 best sunset spots, are one of Itoshima’s most iconic landmarks.

Unlike the usual vermilion torii gates, a pure white torii stands at the edge of the beach, while the Couple Rocks in the distance, tightly bound together by a heavy shimenawa rope, complement each other. They symbolize a lifelong bond and sacred protection.

Although the weather was overcast, the clear seawater gently lapped against the fine sand, accompanied by a soft sea breeze. Just sitting on the shore and gazing into the distance was very soothing. If you visit at sunset, you can also see the spectacular sight of the sun slowly sinking between the two rocks. It’s a beautiful beach view worth enjoying quietly.

Known as the backyard of Fukuoka locals, Itoshima offers a relaxing time by the coast even without a car. This time, I took a Showa Bus directly from Hakata Bus Terminal to Meoto Iwa, avoiding the hassle of transfers. Transportation was more convenient than I expected.

Before leaving, I recommend picking up some picnic snacks at Hakata Station, including a box of Nunu Chicken, a Hakata specialty that is especially crispy, sweet, and spicy when eaten cold. After arriving at Meoto Iwa, find a spot to sit on the beach. In front of you are a pure white torii gate standing in the deep blue water and the rocks connected by a shimenawa rope. Enjoy your picnic with the sea breeze and the sound of waves hitting the shore.

Since the coastal buses run on a fixed schedule, if you're not driving, you can do what I did and choose one or two places to explore at a leisurely pace. This time, I opted for afternoon tea at Itoshima Sabo, which faces the ocean. Since it was fall, I ordered the seasonal chestnut Mont Blanc, pairing its chestnut flavor with black coffee. I simply sat quietly by the window, cleared my mind while looking out at the sea, and enjoyed a carefree, slow-paced afternoon. In the evening, I leisurely took the bus back to bustling Hakata Station, feeling fully recharged in both body and mind.

If you have the chance to visit Yamaga Onsen, be sure to set aside time for Yachiyoza, the century-old wooden kabuki theater. For travelers who appreciate traditional culture, I recommend buying a combo ticket with the Yamaga Lantern Folk Art Museum directly at the ticket counter so you can take in the best of the town’s craftsmanship in one visit.

I was very lucky during this visit and happened to catch a local group rehearsing onstage. Watching the central revolving stage turn smoothly and change the scenery almost like magic, I was amazed but had no idea how it worked. After the rehearsal ended, I followed the narrow wooden stairs down into the secret basement beneath the stage. Only when I saw it with my own eyes was I deeply struck by the wisdom of the people who built it. The seemingly effortless movement onstage was powered entirely by people working together with all their strength to push a massive, heavy wooden axle in a dark, cramped space. It was genuinely moving.

Back on the tatami in the audience area, I found a comfortable corner and sat quietly. Looking up, I saw vintage advertisements for local businesses from a century ago painted across the ceiling. The wooden beams and pillars gave off a deep, tranquil scent of age, and every detail told of the prosperity that continued from the Edo period into the Meiji period. Being there was not only a feast for the eyes but also an immersion in authentic local culture. It was a truly rare cultural experience.