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    On this trip to Kumamoto in Kyushu, I finally got to see Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan's three great castles, in person! As soon as I reached the castle grounds, I was overwhelmed by the massive, imposing black-and-white stone walls known as musha-gaeshi. Their curves are both beautiful and steep, and just standing beneath them, you can feel their powerful historical presence as defenses.

    Although the castle suffered severe damage in the 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes, after years of careful and persistent restoration, the main keep has now been perfectly restored to its former regal appearance. Inside the exhibition hall, historical artifacts and models are presented in a very modern and vivid way, telling in detail about the castle-building ingenuity of Kato Kiyomasa and its other successive lords, as well as the turbulent history of this renowned castle.

    After making the tough climb to the observation deck on the top floor, the entire Kumamoto cityscape and the distant mountains suddenly spread out before me. The view was incredibly expansive. Besides the main keep, the restored large wooden historic buildings nearby, such as Sukiyamaru Niyou-no-Tsubo, are just as intricately crafted and give off an authentic Edo-period atmosphere.

    I highly recommend putting Kumamoto Castle on your must-visit list when traveling to Kumamoto in Kyushu. Whether you come to see the magnificent black castle architecture or experience the resilience local people have shown in the face of disaster, it will definitely be a moving journey through history and culture!

Other Reviews by WANG

  • Zuihoden

    Sendai Domain’s lord, Date Masamune’s mausoleum. According to the will of Date Masamune who passed away in 1636, the 2nd lord, Tadamune built it in the following year. Around Zuihoden, there are information halls and mausoleums such as Kansenden for Date Tadamune and Zennoden for Date Tsunamune. The whole area is Kyogamine Date Clan Tomb, designated as Sendai City’s Historic Site.

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    The moment I stepped into the Zuihoden grounds in Sendai, it felt like I had fallen into a hidden forest filled with history and mystery! Right in front of me was a wooden gate with a black lacquer base and incredibly ornate gold-leaf carvings. A striking red plaque bearing the three large characters for “Zuihoden” hung above it, while the gold decorations around it sparkled in the sunlight, perfectly showcasing Date Masamune’s commanding yet refined style of understated luxury.

    I slowly wandered along the tranquil path tightly surrounded by towering trees. It was so quiet that all I could hear were my own footsteps, insects, and birds, and the air smelled incredibly fresh. As I walked, I suddenly came across distinctive, finely crafted bronze roof tiles carved with dragon heads. The eyes and scales were so lifelike and detailed that I couldn’t stop snapping photos.

    A little farther ahead, an old-fashioned stone sutra tower stood quietly in the lush garden, surrounded by small stone Buddha statues that were both cute and solemn. The whole scene had a strong sense of traditional Japanese Zen. Around a bend, the intricately crafted main hall blended perfectly into the dense forest around it. The contrast of black wood and gold ornamentation looked especially sacred beneath the dappled shadows of the trees.

    Being able to stroll at my own pace through a lush historic site without rushing through an itinerary felt so good! Admiring these incredibly well-preserved traditional crafts and ornate buildings along the way was not only a feast for the eyes but also allowed my mind to completely settle. It’s definitely the ultimate way to experience Sendai’s rich history and culture!

  • Sendai Castle Ruins (Aoba Castle)

    Sendai Castle was built by order of the lord Date Masamune. Commonly called "Aoba Castle," it has been the center of the clan government for 270 years.

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    When you arrive at the Sendai Castle Ruins, you can see the incredibly imposing equestrian statue of Date Masamune from a distance, standing high atop its stone pedestal. Lord Masamune wears his signature crescent-moon helmet and rides a powerful steed, looking unbelievably cool. Against the intensely blue, cloudless sky with a few white clouds floating by, the scene is incredibly striking. Below the statue are old-fashioned stone lions standing guard. Take a photo in front of it, and some of that commanding presence might rub off on you too.

    Looking out from the observation deck at the Honmaru ruins, the view suddenly opens up so wide that you can’t help shouting, “This feels great!” The lively cityscape of Sendai, its high-rise buildings, crisscrossing roads, and layers of mountains in the distance are all spread out before your eyes. The blue sky overhead looks as clean as if it had been washed, with an occasional marshmallow-like white cloud drifting by. Combined with the expansive scenery below, it really makes you feel completely relaxed.

    There’s no need to rush here. Just take a leisurely walk along the edge of the plaza, enjoying the cool breeze, the traces left behind by a famous historical warrior, and the unbeatable city views. This refreshing and carefree walking experience is definitely one of the most enjoyable highlights of a visit to Sendai.

  • Osaki Hachimangu Shrine

    Osaki Hachimangu Shrine was relocated to the northwest (the position of dog and boar) by the order of Date Masamune at the time of the construction of Sendai Castle. Since then, the shrine has been revered as the general guardian of Sendai, especially as a guardian deity for those born in the year of the dog or the year of the boar.

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    At the entrance to Osaki Hachimangu Shrine in Sendai, a super eye-catching red torii gate greets you head-on. Right in the center hangs a gleaming gold plaque that reads “Hachimangu,” giving it an incredibly imposing presence. The area is surrounded by towering green trees, and the stone-paved approach is not only cool and refreshing but also has a stately, old-world feel.

    As you slowly wander along the path, you’ll see neatly lined corridors of red lanterns and old-fashioned stone lanterns on both sides. With a clear blue sky overhead, the whole view—and your mood—instantly opens up. The main shrine is even more striking: the black wooden structure is paired with lavish gold-trimmed carvings and an intricately detailed roof, maxing out that understated-luxury look.

    Standing in front of the worship hall and getting ready to pray, it was so quiet that all I could hear was the soft rustling of leaves in the breeze. The entire space was filled with a calming energy that put me completely at ease. Being able to take my time and casually stroll among the green trees and centuries-old historic buildings was such a relaxing and enjoyable experience in Sendai!

Hokkaido Tohoku Kanto Chubu Hokuriku Kansai Chugoku Shikoku Kyushu Okinawa