HAKOVIVA | Review by WANG

When you arrive at the Sendai Castle Ruins, you can see the incredibly imposing equestrian statue of Date Masamune from a distance, standing high atop its stone pedestal. Lord Masamune wears his signature crescent-moon helmet and rides a powerful steed, looking unbelievably cool. Against the intensely blue, cloudless sky with a few white clouds floating by, the scene is incredibly striking. Below the statue are old-fashioned stone lions standing guard. Take a photo in front of it, and some of that commanding presence might rub off on you too.

Looking out from the observation deck at the Honmaru ruins, the view suddenly opens up so wide that you can’t help shouting, “This feels great!” The lively cityscape of Sendai, its high-rise buildings, crisscrossing roads, and layers of mountains in the distance are all spread out before your eyes. The blue sky overhead looks as clean as if it had been washed, with an occasional marshmallow-like white cloud drifting by. Combined with the expansive scenery below, it really makes you feel completely relaxed.

There’s no need to rush here. Just take a leisurely walk along the edge of the plaza, enjoying the cool breeze, the traces left behind by a famous historical warrior, and the unbeatable city views. This refreshing and carefree walking experience is definitely one of the most enjoyable highlights of a visit to Sendai.

At the entrance to Osaki Hachimangu Shrine in Sendai, a super eye-catching red torii gate greets you head-on. Right in the center hangs a gleaming gold plaque that reads “Hachimangu,” giving it an incredibly imposing presence. The area is surrounded by towering green trees, and the stone-paved approach is not only cool and refreshing but also has a stately, old-world feel.

As you slowly wander along the path, you’ll see neatly lined corridors of red lanterns and old-fashioned stone lanterns on both sides. With a clear blue sky overhead, the whole view—and your mood—instantly opens up. The main shrine is even more striking: the black wooden structure is paired with lavish gold-trimmed carvings and an intricately detailed roof, maxing out that understated-luxury look.

Standing in front of the worship hall and getting ready to pray, it was so quiet that all I could hear was the soft rustling of leaves in the breeze. The entire space was filled with a calming energy that put me completely at ease. Being able to take my time and casually stroll among the green trees and centuries-old historic buildings was such a relaxing and enjoyable experience in Sendai!

At the entrance to the Hakata Ikkousha Main Store, even with rain falling outside, the covered walkway was still packed with loyal foodies holding umbrellas and waiting in a long line. Its popularity is seriously unbelievable. The wooden decor and signature circular logo give the place an understated look and the solid feel of a long-established local restaurant.

Once I sat down and their signature tonkotsu ramen arrived, the visual impact was immediate. The black bowl has “Hakata Ikkousha” printed around the rim, and the broth inside is a rich, smooth, milky white, with a layer of fine bubbles covering the surface. Topped with large slices of juicy-looking pink chashu, neatly arranged bright green onions, strips of wood ear mushrooms, and a perfectly boiled egg, it made my mouth water just looking at it.

Slurping up a big mouthful of noodles coated in the rich broth, the deep, intense pork bone aroma spread through my mouth. It was incredibly satisfying. The table is also thoughtfully stocked with various seasonings and minced garlic, so you can adjust the flavor to your liking at any time. From the rich broth to the generous toppings, every bite of this bowl of ramen delivers an authentic taste of Hakata. Making a pilgrimage to the main store for this bowl is absolutely worth it.