Kusasenri | Review by 一個漸漸喜歡上慢旅的人

If, like me, you visit Kurokawa Onsen by car in the fall, you'll have a different kind of experience. Even though the weather didn't cooperate and a steady drizzle began to fall, it didn't dampen my enthusiasm at all. Wisps of white steam from the hot springs blended with the layers of misty mountains in the distance, giving this secluded mountain town a dreamlike veil of tranquility.

I recommend parking at the tourist information center first. Travelers who want to fully experience the various open-air baths can buy the signature wooden “Nyuto Tegata” bathing pass here. This time, I chose to slow down and explore the town, wandering through alleys lined with dark wooden buildings and trying the popular local pudding, which was sweet, rich, and silky smooth. It filled me with happiness.

In the slightly chilly air after the rain, I was delighted to come across a free footbath with a warm charcoal fire (Ikoi Ryokan Footbath). The moment I dipped my feet into the steaming hot spring water, my whole body warmed up. I loved that heartwarming moment of casually chatting with travelers from different places and warming our hands around the charcoal fire. The nearby hot spring inn also had unattended, honor-system hot spring eggs. You simply put in some coins and scoop out a piping-hot, soft-cooked treat, full of the simple charm of this small town. If you enjoy immersing yourself in the slow pace of an authentic Japanese hot spring town, Kurokawa Onsen is definitely worth a special trip.

This fall, I was lucky enough to visit the Luffy statue standing beside the ginkgo-lined avenue at the Kumamoto Prefectural Government Office. It is also a symbolic landmark that anime fans and travelers shouldn't miss when visiting Kumamoto.

This lifelike statue originated with Kumamoto-born manga artist Eiichiro Oda. After the devastating 2016 earthquakes struck his hometown, he personally helped launch the ONE PIECE Kumamoto Revival Project, turning the members of the Straw Hat Pirates into bronze statues placed throughout disaster-affected towns across the prefecture to watch over residents and help revitalize tourism in Kumamoto. His heartfelt dedication to giving back to his hometown is truly moving, and it has inspired countless fans to make collecting all ten statues an exciting treasure hunt.

After taking photos with the cool-looking Luffy, don't forget to visit the convenience store downstairs in the prefectural office. It sells exclusive limited-edition Luffy and Kumamon merchandise that is both practical and cute, and well worth bringing home as a special souvenir of this heartwarming recovery tour.

If you're driving from south to north, Michi-no-Eki Kyoda is an excellent place to stop and stock up. Although there are plenty of parking spaces, pay a little attention to the traffic flow when turning into the entrance. This long-established rest stop, once honored as “Japan's No. 1,” may be small, but it has everything you need.

The rest stop brings together a wide selection of souvenirs and agricultural specialties from across Okinawa, and the prepared food section has plenty to offer. The piping-hot traditional sata andagi is crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and full of egg flavor—a must-try highlight. It's especially convenient to have lunch right here, as everyone can choose what they like, whether it's an Okinawan pork and egg rice ball, a local homestyle bento, richly flavored island tofu, or a scoop of local ice cream to cool off after the meal.

After you've had your fill, don't forget to walk up to the connecting pedestrian bridge. From above, you can enjoy a beautiful, expansive view of Okinawa's blue sea and look out toward Nago in the ocean breeze. It's an incredibly relaxing place to take a short break on the way to northern Okinawa.