Umezono Kiyomizu Branch | Review by Linda Liao

When visiting Onomichi, of course you can't miss its most iconic local dish, Onomichi ramen! It features a soy sauce broth made with chicken bones and small fish from the Seto Inland Sea, paired with chewy, flat noodles. Most distinctive are the bits of pork back fat floating on the surface, adding a rich aroma. This style can be traced back to the street food stall culture before World War II. After the war, it gradually developed into a local specialty and now has a history of nearly 100 years.

I had originally set my sights on the well-known Ichibankan, but unexpectedly found it closed on Friday, its regular day off. I had to quickly change my plans and search online for another well-reviewed restaurant, and finally decided to go to Kuukai. The classic soy sauce broth was rich but not greasy, and the thick slices of chashu paired with my favorite bamboo shoots made for a very satisfying meal. The restaurant also serves a special lemon Onomichi ramen, with a refreshing fruity aroma that adds a different flavor to the traditional broth. Only 20 bowls are available each day, so come early if you want to try it! Best of all, I was lucky enough to get a window seat, where I enjoyed piping-hot ramen while taking in the view of Onomichi Port and quietly spent a lovely lunchtime.

If you asked me which season I recommend most for visiting Karuizawa, my personal favorite would be fall. As the weather gradually cools, the mountains and forests change into their new fall colors of red, yellow, and orange, and the entire town seems to be covered in gentle hues. What surprised me most during this stay at HOSHINOYA Karuizawa was not only the beautiful accommodations, but also the many special seasonal activities. From soaking in the hot springs and exploring the forest to reading outdoors, each one added a different kind of fun to the trip.

Hoshino Onsen Tombo-no-yu has to be one of the most refined hot springs I’ve ever visited! Tombo-no-yu is very spacious, so even when there are quite a few guests, it doesn’t feel crowded or noisy. My favorite part was soaking in the warm water while enjoying the natural scenery outside through the large floor-to-ceiling windows. As my body gradually warmed up, the quiet forest remained before my eyes. It was incredibly relaxing.

My last visit was right between fall and winter, and I was lucky enough to catch the limited-time “Apple Bath.” Bright red apples floated throughout the hot spring bath, while a subtle fruity aroma drifted through the steam. The scene was so romantic that it almost didn’t feel real. I heard that these apples were purchased from farmers in Aomori and had cosmetic flaws that made them unsuitable for regular sale. This gives produce that might otherwise have been discarded another use while adding some limited-time seasonal fun to the hot spring experience.

In addition to the indoor baths, there is also an open-air bath where you can feel close to nature. Especially during fall and winter, you can soak in the hot water, look up at the sky, and listen to the subtle sounds of nature around you. As your body warms up, your mind also begins to settle. For me, this was more than simply soaking in a hot spring. It felt like a healing break that allowed me to get away from daily life and completely clear my mind.

Another experience that impressed me was Picchio in the Wild Bird Forest! This is more than just a place to enjoy the forest scenery. You can also sign up for a professionally guided nature tour, follow the staff into the woods, and search for birds and wildlife native to Karuizawa while learning about the local environment and ecology. Through the guide’s explanations, a forest that might have seemed ordinary became full of things to explore.

There is also a limited-time pond skating activity in fall and winter. The staff explained that once the temperature drops and the pond freezes over, it opens as a natural skating rink. You can rent skates and purchase gloves and other items on-site, which is very convenient. I was extremely lucky this time and arrived just as the rink opened, becoming one of the first visitors to try it! There weren’t many people at the time, so I had plenty of room to skate. Beginners can also borrow support equipment, so there’s no need to worry too much about falling. I had never skated before, and when I first put on the skates, I was incredibly nervous and held tightly onto a staff member’s hand the entire time, afraid to let go. But after practicing for an hour, I could slowly skate without relying on the support equipment~ I felt such a sense of accomplishment! I had originally planned to try it only briefly, but I ended up skating for a full two hours and reluctantly left only when it was time to go.

The “Autumn Leaves Library” is another limited-time activity that shouldn’t be missed, inviting travelers to connect with nature in a different way. Unlike a traditional library, where you need to sit quietly in a fixed seat, this reading space is set up outdoors, allowing everyone to choose a spot based on their preferences. Whether you sit in a comfortable chair or lie in a playful hammock, you can read while taking in the fall colors all around you.

I especially liked the hammock setup. I gently lay back in it, slowly swaying while holding a book, with the rustling sound of the wind passing through the leaves in my ears. It felt as though even time had slowed down. The fall sunlight was warm but not harsh, and the slightly cool breeze felt just right. Surrounded by maple leaves in shades of red, yellow, and orange, I felt as though I were being gently wrapped in nature’s golden blanket.

Whenever I pass through Osaka Station, I always make a point of browsing around LUCUA. Donguri Republic on the 8th floor is a place Hayao Miyazaki fans shouldn't miss, with all kinds of anime merchandise that's hard to resist. This time, I also happened to discover Flower Miffy. The entire store has a floral theme and is filled with cute Miffy products. From the displays to the small accessories, everything feels so soothing, making it easy to overspend. After my shopping spree, I headed to the KUA`AINA Hawaiian burger restaurant on B2 to fill up! I still remember the first time I tried it in Hawaii. The thin, crispy fries are especially distinctive, and the unusual pineapple burger adds a sweet-and-tangy tropical flavor that made me feel like I was back on vacation.