To Shiretoko without a Car: Explore Eastern Hokkaido’s Coast, Lakes, and Peninsulas on the Eastern Hokkaido Express Bus (Summer)

Monbetsu’s development as a port town has long been tied to the Sea of Okhotsk. The area around Ocean Communication Hall (Garinko Station) serves as a hub for sightseeing. In summer, cruises on the Sea of Okhotsk and other activities reveal a different side of the sea from the one seen in winter. You can also work seasonal experiences, such as a sunset cruise, into your itinerary. After exploring Monbetsu, board the Monbetsu-Shiretoko Express to continue toward Shiretoko while enjoying the scenery along the Okhotsk coast.

Separated from the Sea of Okhotsk by a long, narrow sandbar, Lake Saroma is Hokkaido’s largest lake and Japan’s third largest by area. Its brackish waters stretch beneath a wide sky, creating one of the Okhotsk region’s signature landscapes. The area is also known for scallops, making dishes prepared with fresh local seafood another highlight. Notice how the scenery gradually changes as you travel from coastal port towns to the lake.

Abashiri, on the Sea of Okhotsk, brings together attractions that explore the region’s distinctive history and natural environment. Highlights include the Abashiri Prison Museum, which traces the history of Abashiri Prison back to the Meiji era (1868-1912), and the Okhotsk Ryu-hyo Museum, which introduces the region’s drift ice and marine life. On the Shiretoko-Monbetsu Express, you can choose to visit either museum. You can also board or get off at JR Abashiri Station, making it easy to combine bus and rail travel as you explore eastern Hokkaido.

On the western side of the Shiretoko Peninsula, Utoro is a base for exploring the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shiretoko. A wide range of natural sights awaits, including the pristine landscapes of Shiretoko Goko Lakes, sightseeing cruises offering views of coastal cliffs and waterfalls, and Oshinkoshin Falls, with its roughly 30-meter drop. After sightseeing, unwind in the hot springs of Utoro Onsen. You could spend the night in the hot spring town after arriving by bus, then explore nearby attractions such as Shiretoko Goko Lakes the following day.

Kushiro, the departure point for the Kushiro-Shiretoko Line, is home to the Kushiro Marsh, Japan’s largest wetland. At Kushiroshitsugen National Park, observation decks and walking trails offer views of the vast wetlands and the plants and animals that live there. Local seafood is another pleasure of visiting this port town. At Kushiro Washo Ichiba Market, try the signature Katte don-a bowl of rice topped with the seafood you choose. You can board the Kushiro-Shiretoko Line at Kushiro Station Bus Terminal and other designated stops, making it convenient to continue to Shiretoko after sightseeing in Kushiro.

Lake Akan, in Akan-Mashu National Park, is known for its marimo-spherical colonies of freshwater algae designated as a Special Natural Monument of Japan. The surrounding Akanko Onsen area has a concentration of accommodations and restaurants, making it easy to combine lakeside walks with hot spring bathing. You can board the Kushiro-Shiretoko Line at Akanko Onsen and get off there on the Shiretoko-Kushiro Line. The services can also be part of a wider itinerary, with an overnight stay at Lake Akan, for example, instead of traveling the full distance between Shiretoko and Kushiro in one go.

Surrounded by steep caldera walls, Lake Mashu is known for its remarkably clear water and deep blue color, often called “Mashu Blue.” It’s also famous for the fog that frequently settles over its surface. The Kushiro-Shiretoko Line stops at Lake Mashu First Observatory for about 30 minutes. In clear weather, you can enjoy sweeping views of the lake and the surrounding mountains from the observatory.

The Shiretoko-Kushiro Line stops at Notsuke Peninsula on its way from Shiretoko to Kushiro. Stretching some 26 kilometers, this long, narrow sand spit is the largest in Japan and was formed over many years by sand carried by ocean currents. Among its distinctive sights is Todowara, where seawater encroachment has left a landscape of dead Sakhalin fir trees. The bus spends about 1 hour and 25 minutes at Notsuke Peninsula Nature Center, giving you time to experience this distinctive part of eastern Hokkaido’s natural scenery on the journey from Shiretoko to Kushiro.

Fares depend on the route and the section you travel. Adult fares on the Monbetsu-Shiretoko Express and Shiretoko-Monbetsu Express range from 3,200 to 7,500 yen per person. The adult fare from central Kushiro to Utoro Onsen on the Kushiro-Shiretoko Line is 6,800 yen, while the reverse trip on the Shiretoko-Kushiro Line costs 7,100 yen.

In 2026, the Monbetsu-Shiretoko Express and Shiretoko-Monbetsu Express run daily from July 24 to October 31. The Kushiro-Shiretoko Line runs daily from July 10 to November 2, and the Shiretoko-Kushiro Line runs daily from July 11 to November 3. Boarding and drop-off points, places where you can get off to sightsee, and the time spent at each stop vary by route. Services may change depending on the season, road conditions, and other factors, so be sure to check the official website for the latest information before traveling.

All services require advance reservations, which can be made through the official website. For the Monbetsu-Shiretoko Express and Shiretoko-Monbetsu Express, bookings close at 5:00 pm. three days before departure. The Kushiro-Shiretoko Line and Shiretoko-Kushiro Line can also be booked online. These two services operate as organized bus tours, and cash payment on board is generally not accepted. Check the official website for booking instructions and availability, and reserve well in advance.