Samuhara Shrine | Review by Holly

Nijo-jo Castle is very famous for its cherry blossoms. There are many varieties inside the castle grounds, from early- to late-blooming ones, so the viewing season lasts longer than at spots with only one variety. The Nijo-jo Castle Cherry Blossom Festival and nighttime illuminations are also held every spring. Although I came near the end of cherry blossom season, fortunately I still saw quite a few trees in full bloom.

Nijo-jo Castle is also very important in Japan's modern history. The 15th shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, asked for opinions about returning political power to the emperor at Ninomaru Palace, and later formally returned power to the Imperial Court, symbolizing the approaching end of Tokugawa shogunate rule. When visiting Ninomaru Palace today, you can also see figures in the Grand Hall recreating this historical scene.

Another interesting feature of Ninomaru Palace is the corridor commonly known as the "nightingale floor." It makes a sound when you walk on it. I tried really hard to see if I could walk without making any sound at all, but it was simply impossible—it creaks as soon as you put your weight on it.

My personal favorite is still the Karamon Gate before entering Ninomaru Palace. Its cypress-bark roof has karahafu gables on both the front and back, and the gate is covered in vividly colored carvings of pine, bamboo, plum blossoms, cranes, and Chinese lions. It's truly magnificent. Many traditional buildings in Kyoto tend to give a more understated impression, but the Karamon gates at Nijo-jo Castle and Toyokuni Shrine take a completely different approach. Just looking at them, you can really feel the difference that being in power makes.

Nijo-jo Castle originally had a five-story keep as well, said to have been relocated from Fushimi Castle, but it burned down after being struck by lightning in 1750 and was never rebuilt. Today, you can only climb up to the keep's foundation to see the ruins and the surrounding scenery, which feels a little unfortunate. From another perspective, however, Nijo-jo Castle's true treasure isn't the keep, but the fact that Ninomaru Palace has survived. Most of the original palaces at Edo Castle, Osaka Castle, and Nagoya Castle have disappeared, and Nagoya Castle's Honmaru Palace was reconstructed only in recent years based on historical records. Although part of Kawagoe Castle's Honmaru Palace remains, it is no longer a complete palace complex. Nijo-jo Castle's Ninomaru Palace, by contrast, has been preserved in its entirety, along with its Kano school wall paintings, transoms, and decorative metalwork. This is what truly makes it irreplaceable among Japanese castle architecture.

Fushimi Inari Taisha is truly one of Kyoto's most iconic sights and is well worth visiting at least once. Probably because it's so famous, the approach and shopping street at the foot of the mountain are almost always lively. If you want a quieter visit, I highly recommend coming early, visiting the shrine and walking through the Senbon Torii first. By the time you come back down, the shops will be starting to open, so you can grab something to eat, recharge, and then move on to your next stop.

The shrine's most iconic feature is, of course, the Senbon Torii. Rows of vermilion torii gates stretch all the way into the mountain, and actually walking through them is still quite impressive. Once, I really did climb all the way up Mount Inari to the area around Ichinomine near the summit. I have to say, the scenery on the mountain itself isn't particularly spectacular, but the atmosphere is completely different from below. At the bottom, there are still tourists, shops, and bustling voices, but the higher you go, the quieter it gets, until all that's left are the forest, torii gates, and small shrines, creating an even stronger sense of mystery.

There's also the famous Omokaru Stone next to the Okusha Hohaisho. First, make a wish in front of the stone lantern, then lift the jewel-shaped stone on top. If it feels lighter than you expected, it means your wish is more likely to come true; if it feels heavier than expected, it means you may need to put in more effort. When I lifted it, it felt pretty heavy. Apparently, the problem wasn't the stone—my wish was just too big.

What truly makes Fushimi Inari Taisha special isn't just the Senbon Torii, but also the fox messengers seen everywhere. If you have the time and energy, I recommend not stopping at the first section of the Senbon Torii. Walk at least a little farther up, and you'll see a completely different side of Fushimi Inari Taisha.

Nishiki Market felt to me like a blend of a Japanese shopping street and traditional markets such as Kizu Market and Omicho Market. The entire street is packed with shops selling everything from Kyoto pickles, tofu, tamagoyaki, seafood, and dried goods to wagashi and matcha desserts. However, Nishiki Market now officially reminds visitors not to eat while walking. After purchasing food, it is best to eat in front of the shop or in a designated area inside.

That said, there aren't many places where you can sit down and eat, so you may want to have something beforehand and then come browse. It's good for trying small snacks, while many items are better bought to eat back at your hotel. This time, I also bought tamagoyaki from one shop. I had high expectations, but after eating it, I realized I really do seem to prefer the Kanto style. I looked it up afterward and learned that Kansai-style tamagoyaki mainly features the flavor of dashi and is lighter, while I prefer the sweeter Kanto version with a more pronounced flavor. Another interesting item commonly seen in the market is baby octopus stuffed with a quail egg. A whole baby octopus has a quail egg inside, giving it a very distinctive appearance. This was also my first time trying it here, and it was a memorable snack.

At the eastern end of Nishiki Market is Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine. The main deity enshrined here is Sugawara no Michizane, so like other Tenmangu shrines, it is known for worship related to learning and wisdom and is very popular. After all, who wouldn't want to pray for knowledge and wisdom? The grounds also have “Nishiki Water,” which springs from about 30 meters underground. It's very convenient to stop by and pray after reaching the end of the market.

Next to Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine is the Shinkyogoku branch of Tamaru Inbo, which I make a point of visiting every time I come. Their “Kyo Ufufu Stamps” come in around 1,000 designs, ranging from Japanese-style patterns and Kyoto themes to amusing text stamps. If you like planners and stamps, it's really easy to lose control here. The prices certainly aren't cheap, but the stamp designs and craftsmanship are excellent, and I personally feel the quality justifies the price.