Holly's Reviews Page 1/11

I made a special trip to Hisaya-odori Park this time mainly to see the limited-time event held in collaboration with Nagoya’s popular chick-shaped pudding dessert, Piyorin. There was a large Piyorin-shaped installation featuring a transparent dome design, and visitors could walk right inside to take pictures. Taiwan has similar events, but being able to go inside was still pretty unusual and interesting. Many people took the opportunity to enter and take commemorative photos, so it was hard to get a shot of the chick without anyone inside.
Besides the event itself, the area around Hisaya-odori Park is also quite lively, with many well-known shops and restaurant brands nearby. If you enjoy shopping or looking for unique stores, it might be worth checking in advance to see which places nearby are worth visiting. While walking around this time, I unexpectedly came across the main HARBS store in Nagoya Sakae, which immediately brought back memories of the food. I hesitated and wondered whether I should go in, but when I saw the line outside, I decided to leave it for next time.
Hisaya-odori Park is also conveniently connected to the underground shopping area. Heading downstairs takes you into the Central Park underground mall. I also stopped by a used camera store that a friend had recommended before. There were so many restaurants in the underground mall that I didn’t know what to eat. This area is just as commercially vibrant as Tokyo.

I really liked the atmosphere of worship here.
Compared with Ise Jingu, Sarutahiko Shrine has relatively fewer worshippers. It may be less lively, but that makes it easier to appreciate the buildings and every corner of the grounds at your own pace. I was especially impressed by the uncommon octagonal designs found throughout the shrine and the main sanctuary built in the distinctive Satahiko-zukuri style, with its unique double-gabled roof.
This architectural style, which differs from the forms commonly seen at most shrines, gives the entire shrine a distinct character. The grounds also have places worth seeing, such as the Direction Stone, Takara Stone, and Sarume Shrine. The Direction Stone is one of the features most closely associated with the shrine, giving physical form to the main deity's role in guiding people and providing a more tangible way to pray for good fortune.
Sarume Shrine, meanwhile, represents beliefs related to the performing arts and the repose of spirits, which showed me that even within the grounds of a single shrine, you can learn about different aspects of Japanese Shinto culture.
Overall, this isn't a particularly large shrine, but it has many details worth taking the time to observe. If you're not in a hurry, you can explore it slowly. It's not far from the Inner Shrine and Okage Yokocho area and can be reached on foot, so you can include them together in your itinerary and experience the character of this rare shrine in Ise that isn't affiliated with Ise Jingu.

Otori Shrine is located in Zoshigaya, Tokyo, and has deep historical ties to Kishimojin Temple. Its main deity is Yamato Takeru, with Ukanomitama also enshrined here, and it is also the place where Ebisu, one of the Zoshigaya Seven Lucky Gods, is worshipped. The deity here was originally enshrined under the name “Sagi Myojin” within the grounds of Kishimojin Temple. It was moved during the Meiji period due to the order separating Shinto and Buddhism, gradually taking shape as the present-day Otori Shrine.
I stopped by Otori Shrine this time because of the Zoshigaya Handmade Market, but after actually walking inside, I unexpectedly came away with a good impression of the shrine itself. The handmade market happened to extend onto the shrine grounds during my visit, making it much livelier than usual, but there were still far fewer people than at Kishimojin Temple. Although the market extended onto the shrine grounds, there were fewer stalls here, and the works were more focused on floral art and handicrafts. I especially liked a Christmas wreath made with stained glass. It was delicate and had a very distinctive style.
The biggest surprise this time was unexpectedly seeing a chinowa ring being set up for the year-end purification ceremony. I knew there would be a chinowa ring in the summer, but I didn’t expect one at the end of the year. I paused for a moment when I saw the large ring woven from miscanthus reeds, then immediately took out my phone to double-check the correct way to walk through the “chinowa-kuguri.” After all, I had only done it before at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto, and enough time had passed that I had almost completely forgotten. Since it was such a rare opportunity, of course I quickly followed the instructions online and walked through it to cleanse myself of impurities.

I included Tokyo Daijingu Shrine in this trip mainly because it is quite well known among Tokyo’s shrines for finding love. It also has deep historical ties to Ise Jingu, so since I was already planning to visit Ise Jingu, I wanted to stop by here first and pray for good luck in love. I was also scheduled to attend a handicraft market in Zoshigaya that day, so after considering transportation and the direction of my itinerary, I decided to visit the shrine in the morning.
When I arrived, I found that the shrine grounds were a little smaller than I had imagined, but there were quite a lot of visitors. I also happened to see a couple holding a Shinto wedding ceremony that day, which was an unexpected bonus. There was a wide variety of love-themed omikuji, including basic love and matchmaking fortunes, as well as flower fortunes, blood type fortunes, and lucky matchmaking fortunes, so you can choose according to your preference. The shrine office also sold a wide selection of charms. The most famous is the “Enmusubi Suzuran Mamori,” but after looking for quite a while, I ultimately chose the “Enju Mamori,” which I personally preferred. The outer layer of this charm is made from a special cocoon silk, giving it a very delicate texture. It suited my taste better than the cute lily-of-the-valley charm.
There were also seats made from wooden posts next to the amulet office, allowing visitors to take a short break. It was a very thoughtful design. Perhaps because it was a holiday, there were consistently many visitors. By the time I was getting ready to leave, the line to pray at the main hall was several times longer than when I had arrived, showing just how popular this place really is.
One distinctive point is that although the shrine grounds are not large, the buildings are constructed in the shinmei-zukuri architectural style. The roofs and buildings themselves have a very strong presence, which made the space feel slightly oppressive to me. If buildings of the same scale were placed in a spacious setting like Ise Jingu, perhaps the feeling would not be as noticeable.
Also, my visit happened to be close to the Japanese New Year, and I unexpectedly saw craftspeople nearby making New Year’s pine decorations. It was my first time seeing the process of making this kind of traditional New Year’s decoration in person, and I found it quite interesting. Overall, the grounds of Tokyo Daijingu Shrine are not large, and around 20–40 minutes should be enough to pray, enjoy the surroundings, and shop for charms. If you happen to be planning an itinerary around Iidabashi, it may be worth stopping by.

The main reason I visited Okayama Castle this time was to attend a local sake event held inside the castle at night. You can take the streetcar to Shiroshita Station and then walk about 10 minutes to Okayama Castle. However, if you come at night, the route from Shiroshita Station to the castle isn’t particularly well lit. I found this stretch of the walk a little scary, and the lighting only noticeably increased after I actually entered the Okayama Castle and Ujo Park area. If you’re visiting at night, I recommend having your phone’s flashlight ready so you can at least feel safer while walking.
The castle tower you see at Okayama Castle today is a reconstruction. The original tower was destroyed in the 1945 air raid on Okayama and wasn’t rebuilt until 1966. Once inside, I felt it was more like a history museum themed around Okayama Castle. In addition to historical exhibits, there are also plenty of interactive activities and experiences, such as trying on samurai and princess costumes and riding in an Edo-period palanquin.
If you collect stamps from Japan’s 100 Famous Castles, you can get the Okayama Castle stamp here as well. The stamp is currently located near the reception area on the first basement floor. However, since it’s inside the paid area, you still need to purchase admission to use it. If you have the Okayama Enjoy Pass, you can use it here to redeem a package that includes admission to the Okayama Castle tower and a seasonal fruit parfait at Ujo Cafe.
However, rather than the castle tower itself, I found the truly interesting parts of Okayama Castle to be the remaining stone walls and castle ruins around it. The honmaru still has stone walls from different periods. You can see traces of the castle construction from the time of Ukita Hideie, sections left from later expansions by the Ikeda clan, and even excavated stone walls and markings left by stonemasons. Looking closely at the stone walls actually gives you a stronger sense of how Okayama Castle changed under different lords and through different eras. Compared with the reconstructed castle tower, I personally felt that these unassuming stone walls and ruins were more distinctive of Okayama Castle.

Kiyomizu-dera is always crowded, but even so, I still highly recommend that first-time visitors to Kyoto come here at least once. The temple’s architecture is truly distinctive, especially the Main Hall and Kiyomizu Stage, which were built into the mountainside. Actually standing there and experiencing their scale is completely different from simply looking at photos.
However, if you’re traveling with older people, I’d recommend taking their stamina into consideration. Kiyomizu-dera is located at the foot of Mt. Otowa, after all, and entering from the regular visitor entrance still involves walking uphill for a while. The temple has actually made considerable efforts to improve accessibility. Wheelchairs can enter via the emergency access road above Chawan-zaka, and there is also a step-free route near the Main Hall. Compared with other temples I’ve visited, the accessibility here is quite comprehensive. However, because of the temple’s sloping terrain and historic buildings, making it completely accessible is still difficult.
The temple grounds are also larger than you might expect, and since this is one of Kyoto’s most popular attractions, you may have to wait in line in many places. Otowa Waterfall, for example, is very popular, and each of its three streams is associated with a different wish, so you’ll usually see people lined up there. If you want to avoid the crowds as much as possible, arriving earlier or later may help, but Kiyomizu-dera is so popular that you may still encounter quite a few visitors even around 8:00 a.m. Still, the experience is usually better than during the busiest hours of the day.
As for transportation, I personally wouldn’t recommend driving. There is no parking lot on the temple grounds. Although there are Kyoto municipal parking lots and other privately operated lots nearby, spaces can be hard to find during busy periods. Even if you do manage to park, you’ll still have to walk some distance uphill, since you can’t drive directly up to the temple gate.

After entering Oharai-machi, turn right and you'll see it. The Akafuku Main Store is actually very easy to find. This is Akafuku's flagship location, and the timing of my visit was pretty good, so the line wasn't too outrageous. However, if it's very crowded and you're not set on eating at the main store, I don't think you need to spend all your time waiting here. There are other Akafuku shops nearby to choose from.
As for the Akafuku Mochi itself, I think its strongest point is actually the red bean paste. If the bean paste is strained too finely, it's easy to lose the aroma of the beans along with it. But if you try to preserve that aroma, it's difficult to make the paste this smooth. Akafuku balances the two very well. The texture is extremely delicate, but it doesn't just taste sweet—you can still taste the aroma of the azuki beans themselves. This seemingly simple wagashi actually requires a great deal of skill in handling red beans, and I think Akafuku is truly impressive in that regard.
What surprised me most was that it wasn't as sweet as I'd imagined. It's still sweet, but when paired with the hot tea provided, the sweetness is softened and everything comes back into balance. I really admire how Akafuku gets the level of sweetness just right.
When I visited, they also happened to have the seasonal summer Akafuku Mizu-Yokan. Akafuku Mizu-Yokan is made with azuki beans from Hokkaido and prepared as a whole slab poured into a single box, and it has very good reviews. I really wanted to buy it, but it's a frozen product that has to be kept cold. The problem was that I visited in August and still had a full itinerary after making the purchase, eventually heading all the way to Osaka. A frozen product was simply not practical to buy. If it had come in a smaller box, I could have found a place to sit after walking around Okage Yokocho and finished it right there. But it was a large 320g box, and no matter how much I can handle sweets, there was no way I could finish it all at once. In the end, I had to tearfully give up on it.

Kyoto has both an eastern and western Honganji Temple, but originally there was only one Honganji Temple. After Kennyo Shonin passed away, his eldest son Kyonyo succeeded him as head of Honganji, but Toyotomi Hideyoshi later ordered him to retire, and the position passed to his third son, Junnyo. This became the foundation for the lineage that would later develop into Nishi Honganji. Later still, Tokugawa Ieyasu granted Kyonyo land around Karasuma Rokujo and Shichijo in Kyoto, where Kyonyo reestablished Honganji, resulting in the present-day Higashi and Nishi Honganji temples.
Higashi Honganji is closer to Kyoto Station than Nishi Honganji. It is about a 7-minute walk from JR Kyoto Station, so if you happen to be nearby, I highly recommend stopping by. The first time I entered Higashi Honganji, I was genuinely taken aback because the grounds were far larger than I had expected. The Founder’s Hall in particular is one of the largest wooden structures in the world, and its interior contains 927 tatami mats. Compared with the other temples I had visited over the past few days, the ones I had previously thought were huge suddenly seemed like nothing.
And Higashi Honganji is not just “big.” If you look closely at the buildings, you will find many interesting details. Although the main buildings you see today have been reconstructed, the architecture still has plenty of details worth taking the time to examine. On this visit, for example, I saw quite a few wooden carvings featuring animals. The rabbit in the photo is one of them, and deer, dragons, lions, and other animals can be found elsewhere on the grounds. When visiting a large temple like this, it is easy to miss these small details if you only keep staring at the main hall. Instead, slowly looking up and down will reveal quite a few interesting things.
Also, it happened to be raining when I visited, and there seemed to be some kind of temple event going on. I saw the temple staff taking out a huge number of umbrellas to organize and dry them. From a distance, the sight of so many open umbrellas was actually quite impressive. This is not something an ordinary tourist would particularly expect to see, but it ended up becoming one of my strongest memories of Higashi Honganji.
I also never expected such a solemn temple to have its own mascot. On this visit, I saw a standee of “Ran’on-kun” on the grounds. It is a lion wearing Buddhist robes and holding prayer beads, which felt like quite a contrast at first glance. I later looked it up and found that it is an official character created for events related to the 750th memorial anniversary of Shinran Shonin in 2011. It made me feel that Japanese Buddhism is really quite modern.
And honestly, I personally think Higashi Honganji is quite luxurious. It feels very different from the style of Buddhist temples I commonly see in Taiwan, especially because the halls are decorated with many gold elements, making the overall appearance quite ornate. I even felt that it had the same kind of glittering golden visual effect as Nijo Castle,

Although Omihachiman isn't very far from the station, we rented bicycles near the JR station to save our legs. Luckily, we did, because the sights in Omihachiman were farther apart than expected, and some stretches were sloped. Even if you take a bus to the sights, the actual area to explore is still fairly large, so walking can be a little tiring. Having bicycles was really much more convenient.
The white walls, lattice windows, traditional machiya houses, and scenery around Hachiman-bori really give Omihachiman the feel of an Edo-period castle town. Almost any angle makes for an atmospheric photo. Although it looks a little like Kurashiki, the two are still different. There aren't as many businesses here as in Kurashiki, but the smaller crowds give it a character of its own. Since we visited in winter, the trees on both sides of the canal were bare. It wasn't as pretty as in other seasons, but the desolate feeling had its own charm. We also ran into lots of cats along the way. They weren't afraid of people and let us take pictures, which made me very happy.
Another main reason we included Omihachiman in this trip was the “Omihachiman Sekku Doll Tour,” because I wanted to see the Hina dolls displayed by local businesses. After actually visiting, I realized that it was more like individual families displaying their treasured Hina dolls in their own stores or homes and opening the spaces to visitors, rather than the kind of large exhibition I had imagined. Since we would have to enter the stores and would feel awkward leaving without buying anything, we didn't go out of our way to see them. However, the restaurant where we ate also had Hina dolls on display, and we found a style we liked, so it still felt worthwhile.
We also stopped by Hakuunkan along the way. This building was originally built in 1877 as Hachiman Higashi School. It combines Western architectural styles with traditional Japanese techniques and is a representative example of pseudo-Western architecture. It is now used as a tourist information center and is a convenient place to rest, ask for information, and buy souvenirs while exploring Hachiman-bori and the old town. We bought a postcard made from rush grass here, printed with a very Japanese-style design. I had already planned to buy a postcard to mail to myself, and when I saw this unusual design, I decided this was the one.
Another thing I was really looking forward to in Omihachiman was CLUB HARIE's baumkuchen. However, the Himure House doesn't directly face the main road, and at first we wandered around for quite a while without finding it. Finally, my friend couldn't take it anymore and rushed straight to Hakuunkan to ask the staff. That's when we learned it was actually nearby. After entering from the road near Hakuunkan, we found it by looking to the left.
In the end, we bought baumkuchen and pudding. The pudding looked delicious at the time, so I picked it up on impulse, but after eating it, I actually regretted it a little. If I'd known, I would have spent the entire budget on baumkuchen. The baumkuchen itself wasn't too sweet, the kind of flavor Taiwanese people would like.

I actually had only two goals for this visit to Hikone Castle: Hikonyan and the legendary staircase that's nearly 90 degrees steep. To make the schedule go more smoothly, we specifically came in the morning, hoping to catch Hikonyan's 11:00 performance. Hikone Castle itself is a National Treasure of Japan. Construction began in 1604 and took about 20 years to complete. The castle, once ruled by the Ii family as feudal lords, still retains much of its historic appearance. I originally didn't have many expectations for the castle itself, but once I went inside, even just walking from the entrance toward the castle grounds made me realize that it was actually quite large. There's a fair distance from the entrance to the castle keep.
The path into the castle grounds is actually pretty steep, but once I climbed up and looked down, the whole view suddenly gave me a strange sense of traveling through time, as if I had really stepped into the castle grounds of the past. Then it was time to wait for the staff to lead Hikonyan out to meet everyone. All I can say is that as soon as Hikonyan appeared, everyone there instantly went wild! Hikonyan was already adorable, and the staff member in the costume kept acting cute, so I couldn't stop taking pictures. I was snapping away almost the entire time.
The only unfortunate thing was that we couldn't take pictures directly with Hikonyan that day. We could only take photos from a distance or pose with the nearby signboard. Still, I was already very satisfied just to see Hikonyan in person.
After seeing Hikonyan, it was time to take on the extremely steep staircase leading up to the castle keep. Hikone Castle has an original three-story compound-style keep, and the stairs inside have an incline of around 60 to 62 degrees. Even before reaching the legendary staircase, the other stairs inside the castle were already very steep. When I finally saw the staircase leading to the very top, it honestly looked even more extreme than I'd imagined. There was just a rope beside it serving as a handrail, with staff at the top and bottom watching out for visitors' safety. I felt like I was basically crawling up on all fours.
After climbing to the top of the keep, the view outside was truly beautiful. Apparently, you can see Lake Biwa when the weather is clear. Unfortunately, although the weather was pretty good that day, there were still some clouds, so Lake Biwa wasn't very clear. Still, being able to look out over the surrounding scenery from that height made me feel that the difficult climb hadn't been for nothing.
But the real challenge wasn't over yet. Climbing up the stairs was already painful, but going down was a different kind of torture. I kept feeling like I might tumble down at any moment, and at one point I even thought rolling down might be faster! But that was just a thought. I still clung desperately to the rope and slowly made my way down one step at a time. I have no idea what position I was in as I went down anymore. I only remember trying very hard to make it down alive.
Besides the castle keep, there's also Genkyuen Garden, a daimyo garden next to Hikone Castle. Unfortunately, because it was winter, the garden scenery was rather plain. However, we unexpectedly came across a Japanese couple taking wedding photos. The bride was wearing an iro-uchikake wedding kimono and looked truly beautiful, which added another pleasant surprise to the trip.