Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine, which became widely known because of the movie Into the Forest of Fireflies' Light, is tucked away in the woods of Minamiaso. This time, we made a special effort to drive from Kumamoto early in the morning and visit before the tour groups arrived, finally getting to enjoy this pure tranquility, as if entering another world, all to ourselves.
The mountain forest was shrouded in a light morning mist. As we slowly followed the approach, nearly a hundred moss-covered stone lanterns and towering cedar trees stood solemnly on both sides, steeped in a profound sense of history. After praying at the simple, unadorned shrine, don't forget to continue up the hillside behind it to see Ugeto Iwa, the legendary stone from mythology. Just as we turned around to head down the mountain, lively tour groups began pouring onto the steps, making us even more grateful that we had arrived early enough to experience that undisturbed, ethereal atmosphere.
After descending the mountain, I recommend stopping by Takamori Dengaku Hozonkai, where you can sit around a traditional sunken hearth and grill local dishes over charcoal. The Aso river fish, slowly grilled over charcoal, had crispy skin and tender meat. Paired with taro and tofu coated in rich miso, the flavors were simple yet unforgettable. When the warm and talkative owner heard that we were from Taiwan, he gave us an especially friendly welcome. As someone who loves food, I picked up a jar of the restaurant's homemade dengaku miso before leaving. Back in Taiwan, I can spread it on ingredients and lightly grill them anytime I want to relive those warm, pure local flavors.
