I've visited many well-known attractions in Japan, but Onomichi is a place I can never forget and have always loved. This unpretentious seaside town lies between the mountains and the sea, with homes, small shops, and temples tucked among its rolling hills. Wandering through them feels like entering a maze, never knowing what surprise awaits around the next corner. To experience Onomichi's charming scenery, start at Senkoji Park and take the Senkoji Mountain Ropeway slowly up to the summit. As the ropeway climbs higher, the city of Onomichi, the Seto Inland Sea, and the islands scattered across the water gradually come into view. The scenery where the mountains meet the sea is refreshing and uplifting. After reaching the summit, you can also stroll through the park, admire the distinctive sight of Senkoji Temple built into the mountainside, and take in the tranquil atmosphere of this ancient temple.
As I made my way down the hillside, what I looked forward to most was visiting Neko no Hosomichi, or Cat Alley! Cat lovers should definitely take a walk here and enjoy the fun of looking for cats. Along both sides of the winding path are many adorable cat-shaped stones, painted stone slabs, and other creations hidden throughout the alleys and corners. Every discovery brings an involuntary smile. You may also unexpectedly encounter real cats along the way. Some are friendly and outgoing, while others are aloof and proud, as if welcoming travelers at their own pace.
Along the way, you can also visit the Onomichi City Museum of Art, an art space tucked away in Senkoji Park and designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando. The clean, minimalist architecture complements the surrounding natural scenery, and simply admiring the building is satisfying. The museum is also known for the adorable, years-long back-and-forth between Ken-chan, a black cat, and a security guard, which adds a heartwarming and amusing charm to the place. During this visit, I happened to catch an exhibition of Utagawa Hiroshige's complete series The Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido, which was another unexpected surprise.
From the magnificent mountain and sea views from the ropeway and the charming atmosphere of the hillside alleys to the leisurely moments filled with cats and art, Onomichi always moves me in unexpected ways. I'm sure I'll return to this captivating town again soon to search once more for the surprises hidden around each corner!
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