My second visit to Byodoin in Uji. Phoenix Hall sits in the middle of Aji Pond, its vermilion structure reflected on the water. It looks impressive from every angle, especially when sunlight makes the golden phoenixes on the roof stand out.
I recommend paying extra to tour the interior of Phoenix Hall. Seeing the golden Amida Buddha up close, surrounded by the variously posed Praying Bodhisattvas on Clouds, is both solemn and intricate, and truly more awe-inspiring than viewing them from across the pond. Photography isn't allowed, but that lets you focus on the thousand-year-old Buddhist statues and murals before you. The grounds are beautifully maintained, with flowers and trees changing through the seasons. Walking beside the pond in the gentle breeze and looking at Phoenix Hall's reflection naturally slows you down.
Photography is prohibited inside the Hoshokan Museum, so engage all five senses and take it in. The exhibits include the temple bell, Praying Bodhisattvas on Clouds, a pair of phoenixes, and the Standing Eleven-Headed Kannon Bodhisattva, an Important Cultural Property. The Praying Bodhisattvas on Clouds are especially memorable. Their poses—flying on clouds, playing music, dancing, and pressing their palms together—symbolize the Pure Land of Bliss.
Overall, Byodoin isn't just a place to see architecture and take pictures. You can also experience the aesthetics and Pure Land faith of the Heian period. If you visit Uji, it's well worth setting aside time to stroll around and appreciate it at a leisurely pace.
