一個漸漸喜歡上慢旅的人's Reviews Page 3/12

Located right next to Aso Station, Michi-no-Eki Aso is a treasure trove for discovering local products. Since I was staying at a hotel by the station, I had time to leisurely browse the specialties before closing.

Inside, there was a wide selection of local fruits and vegetables, from rich and flavorful Aso milk and silky pudding to farm-fresh produce and popular soft-serve ice cream. The best part was arriving during the evening discount period and getting a Wagyu bento at a surprisingly low price. The meat was tender, with wonderfully flavorful marbling. I took it back to my hotel and enjoyed it, and the taste was unforgettable. Whether you’re passing the time while waiting for a train or making a special trip, it’s well worth a visit.

If you're fascinated by unique trains like I am, then when visiting Kyushu, the kingdom of railways, a JR KYUSHU RAIL PASS is definitely the best key to unlocking a dream trip. Since I wanted to ride all of Kyushu's unique sightseeing trains on this trip, getting the All Kyushu pass turned out to be the best-value decision of the journey.

Each of Kyushu's unique trains (D&S sightseeing trains) has a one-of-a-kind spirit. On this trip to Aso, I took the Aso Boy! on the way there, covered in playful dog illustrations; on the return trip, I switched to the Kawasemi Yamasemi, with its elegant, understated wooden interior designed for adults. From Hakata to Saga, I briefly experienced the luxurious 36+3, whose refined private tatami rooms and Japanese craftsmanship felt truly prestigious. On the way to Amakusa, I boarded the retro, jazz-themed A-TRAIN and enjoyed a specialty cocktail, which made the ride slightly tipsy and romantic.

The most unforgettable of all was the Two Stars 4047 racing along the Ariake Sea. Its white cars reflected against the clear sky and ocean scenery, looking like a dream. On the way to Yufuin, the green Yufuin no Mori is another classic that shouldn't be missed. These unique trains not only offer exclusive local meals and commemorative postcards you can stamp, but also limited-edition souvenirs to collect.

Finally, here's my practical advice: After booking in Taiwan, if you want to avoid the one- or two-hour lines often found at major stations like Hakata or Kumamoto, consider exchanging your pass at a Midori-no-Madoguchi ticket office in a less crowded small or medium-sized station along your itinerary. It can save valuable time. I recommend visiting Kyushu and fully experiencing a journey on its unique trains.

This was a special train journey from Kumamoto to Aso aboard the playful Aso Boy! train. Along the way, the scenery outside the windows changed from city streets to magnificent mountains. After arriving at Aso Station, a bus takes you to Aso Shrine, which has a history spanning more than a thousand years.

Although the shrine was severely damaged in the 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes and is still undergoing a long and meticulous reconstruction process, none of its sacredness or dignity has diminished. Standing in the spacious shrine grounds and quietly looking up at the restored beams and rustic shrine buildings, you can deeply feel the pulse of the earth and the resilience of faith.

After visiting the shrine, I strolled over to the nearby Monzenmachi shopping street. Tucked away farther down the road is an artsy hidden spot—the site of a former girls' school. This quiet cluster of old wooden buildings sees few tour groups and is home to places such as Kitakaze Shoten, which sells charming lifestyle goods. During our conversation, the adorable owner mentioned that they would be exhibiting in Taiwan soon. There is also an antique shop filled with old objects bearing the marks of time, as well as a small local café with the enticing aroma of baked goods. It's a treasured corner that travelers who love exploring Japan's simple everyday life shouldn't miss.

Thinking back on that trip to Aso two years ago, I took the Aso Boy! on the way there and was fortunate enough to ride the calm and elegant Kawasemi Yamasemi sightseeing train on the way back. The greenery outside the windows and the wooden interior came together to create an exceptional riding experience. The dreamlike encounter with these two special trains and the warm, unpretentious people of Aso remain deeply etched in my mind. I sincerely hope that this beautiful land can once again overcome the trials of natural disasters and soon regain the vibrant prosperity it once had.

The day before we left, I checked and was worried that we might not be able to go up the mountain because of restrictions. Early that morning, we learned that the restrictions had been lifted and the area was open. The surprise of being able to visit the crater of Mount Aso's Nakadake was beyond words.

It was my first time standing this close to the edge of an active volcanic crater. Deep inside the enormous crater, emerald blue-green magma churned and bubbled, while billowing white smoke carried the pungent smell of sulfur. Compared with the tranquil, distant blue of Okama at Mount Zao in Tohoku, which I had visited before, the violently breathing Mount Aso before me felt more like the beating heart of the earth. It was astonishing.

The domed emergency shelters along the trail silently reminded us of nature's unpredictability. Just after we finished marveling at this incredible work of nature, an alarm sounded because the volcanic gas concentration had spiked, and we immediately returned to the visitor center. Looking back as the staff once again put up the barriers and closed the entrance, I felt even more grateful for that brief, fleeting encounter. An active volcanic site that is well worth visiting.

The greatest pleasure of driving around Aso is having the freedom to take in the magnificence of Kusasenri at your own pace. On the mountain road from Komezuka to Kusasenri, be sure not to miss the elevated observation deck along the way. After parking, look down from above to see an entire field of autumn silver grass swaying in the wind, with the smoking crater of Mount Nakadake in the distance. The layered scenery is truly majestic.

After following the mountain road to Kusasenri, I recommend heading straight to the scenic restaurant on the second floor for the local specialty, Aso beef teppanyaki. The tender beef sizzling on the hot plate and its mouthwatering aroma made it the most warm and comforting treat in the autumn breeze.

After your meal, head down to the first floor. Not only are there many high-quality Aso souvenirs and specialty goods to browse, but it is also home to the popular Kusasenri Coffee Roastery. As a coffee lover, of course I couldn't pass it up. I ordered a rich hot latte along with a classic Aso pudding, made with pure Aso milk and featuring a dense, silky-smooth texture. I found a seat by the window and alternated between bites of pudding and sips of coffee while quietly gazing out over the endless autumn wilderness. This encounter with Aso's autumn silver grass in the Land of Fire left me completely satisfied in both body and mind.

Driving along Aso’s winding mountain roads, I rounded a bend when Komezuka suddenly came into view like a giant pudding turned upside down. Its round, adorable volcanic cone shape instantly brought a smile to my face.

Several pullouts have thoughtfully been provided along the road, making it easy to park, get out, and quietly gaze at it. In autumn, Komezuka loses the lush green often seen online, and the entire hill dons a golden coat of Japanese pampas grass. The slightly indented crater at the top takes on a vast, tranquil, and desolate beauty.

It may not have the vitality of summer, but when the autumn wind blows through the golden pampas grass, the vastness and solitude of the landscape feel even more powerful. This autumn encounter, so different from the usual views, had a uniquely enchanting and soothing charm for me.

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine, which became widely known because of the movie Into the Forest of Fireflies' Light, is tucked away in the woods of Minamiaso. This time, we made a special effort to drive from Kumamoto early in the morning and visit before the tour groups arrived, finally getting to enjoy this pure tranquility, as if entering another world, all to ourselves.

The mountain forest was shrouded in a light morning mist. As we slowly followed the approach, nearly a hundred moss-covered stone lanterns and towering cedar trees stood solemnly on both sides, steeped in a profound sense of history. After praying at the simple, unadorned shrine, don't forget to continue up the hillside behind it to see Ugeto Iwa, the legendary stone from mythology. Just as we turned around to head down the mountain, lively tour groups began pouring onto the steps, making us even more grateful that we had arrived early enough to experience that undisturbed, ethereal atmosphere.

After descending the mountain, I recommend stopping by Takamori Dengaku Hozonkai, where you can sit around a traditional sunken hearth and grill local dishes over charcoal. The Aso river fish, slowly grilled over charcoal, had crispy skin and tender meat. Paired with taro and tofu coated in rich miso, the flavors were simple yet unforgettable. When the warm and talkative owner heard that we were from Taiwan, he gave us an especially friendly welcome. As someone who loves food, I picked up a jar of the restaurant's homemade dengaku miso before leaving. Back in Taiwan, I can spread it on ingredients and lightly grill them anytime I want to relive those warm, pure local flavors.

During my trip to Takachiho, I had been deeply disappointed that boating was canceled due to the water level. But then I came to the Amaterasu Railway and was lucky enough to get a seat from the waitlist, boarding the semi-open-air little train that offered the most warmth and emotional fulfillment of the entire trip.

The roofless cars, converted from the old Takachiho Line, slowly made their way into the mountains and dark tunnels amid a gentle breeze and the rumble of the diesel engine. As the train continued to climb and finally stopped in the middle of what was once Japan’s highest railway bridge, the magnificent mountain ranges and deep gorge spread out below us.

The conductor gently turned off the engine and thoughtfully gave everyone plenty of time to take pictures. Even more surprisingly, he brought out a bubble machine and sent sparkling, colorful bubbles out over the incredibly deep gorge. The rainbow-colored bubbles floated on the wind between the blue sky and the railway bridge, as beautiful as a fairy tale.

Perhaps this is exactly what makes travel so captivating: there are unexpected disappointments, but there are always unanticipated surprises as well. The conductor’s sincere, pure, radiant smile remains deeply etched in my heart to this day, warming all my memories of Takachiho.

Takachiho Gorge, formed over tens of thousands of years as lava from Mount Aso was eroded, truly lives up to its reputation as an internationally renowned natural wonder.

Although I had specifically reserved a boat ride online before setting out, it was unfortunately suspended when I arrived due to rising water levels. However, looking out from the elevated gorge trail and slowly experiencing the land on foot instead gave me a different perspective.

Looking down from above, the spectacular basalt columnar joints on both sides rise dozens of meters, straight and steep. Manai Falls, one of Japan's 100 most famous waterfalls, pours down between the cliffs like a ribbon of white silk, sending spray into the air. At noon, sunlight filters through the dense forest and falls on the deep emerald waters of the gorge. With light and shadow intermingling, it looks like a still ink-wash painting. Gazing at it for a long time brought an especially deep sense of peace and restoration to both body and mind.

After marveling at nature's craftsmanship at Takachiho Gorge, I slowly made my way up the forest trail, surrounded by lush greenery on both sides. In about twenty minutes, I reached Takachiho Shrine, hidden deep among the mountains and secluded valleys.

This ancient shrine, with a history spanning over a thousand years, is the center of faith in Takachiho and carries the solemn spiritual atmosphere of the birthplace of Japanese mythology. The most eye-catching sight at the shrine is a pair of enormous married cedars whose roots are closely intertwined and whose trunks tower into the sky. It's said that holding hands with someone special and walking around them three times will bring good relationships and harmony to the family, so of course I made a wish here too.

The traditional kagura performances held here after dark are very famous. Although I didn't have the chance to visit at night this time, walking through the quiet shrine during the day among moss-covered trees towering overhead, closing my eyes, and feeling its calm, pure, and mysterious power was already the deepest kind of cleansing for both body and mind.