Manai Falls | Review by 一個漸漸喜歡上慢旅的人

Driving along Aso’s winding mountain roads, I rounded a bend when Komezuka suddenly came into view like a giant pudding turned upside down. Its round, adorable volcanic cone shape instantly brought a smile to my face.

Several pullouts have thoughtfully been provided along the road, making it easy to park, get out, and quietly gaze at it. In autumn, Komezuka loses the lush green often seen online, and the entire hill dons a golden coat of Japanese pampas grass. The slightly indented crater at the top takes on a vast, tranquil, and desolate beauty.

It may not have the vitality of summer, but when the autumn wind blows through the golden pampas grass, the vastness and solitude of the landscape feel even more powerful. This autumn encounter, so different from the usual views, had a uniquely enchanting and soothing charm for me.

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine, which became widely known because of the movie Into the Forest of Fireflies' Light, is tucked away in the woods of Minamiaso. This time, we made a special effort to drive from Kumamoto early in the morning and visit before the tour groups arrived, finally getting to enjoy this pure tranquility, as if entering another world, all to ourselves.

The mountain forest was shrouded in a light morning mist. As we slowly followed the approach, nearly a hundred moss-covered stone lanterns and towering cedar trees stood solemnly on both sides, steeped in a profound sense of history. After praying at the simple, unadorned shrine, don't forget to continue up the hillside behind it to see Ugeto Iwa, the legendary stone from mythology. Just as we turned around to head down the mountain, lively tour groups began pouring onto the steps, making us even more grateful that we had arrived early enough to experience that undisturbed, ethereal atmosphere.

After descending the mountain, I recommend stopping by Takamori Dengaku Hozonkai, where you can sit around a traditional sunken hearth and grill local dishes over charcoal. The Aso river fish, slowly grilled over charcoal, had crispy skin and tender meat. Paired with taro and tofu coated in rich miso, the flavors were simple yet unforgettable. When the warm and talkative owner heard that we were from Taiwan, he gave us an especially friendly welcome. As someone who loves food, I picked up a jar of the restaurant's homemade dengaku miso before leaving. Back in Taiwan, I can spread it on ingredients and lightly grill them anytime I want to relive those warm, pure local flavors.

During my trip to Takachiho, I had been deeply disappointed that boating was canceled due to the water level. But then I came to the Amaterasu Railway and was lucky enough to get a seat from the waitlist, boarding the semi-open-air little train that offered the most warmth and emotional fulfillment of the entire trip.

The roofless cars, converted from the old Takachiho Line, slowly made their way into the mountains and dark tunnels amid a gentle breeze and the rumble of the diesel engine. As the train continued to climb and finally stopped in the middle of what was once Japan’s highest railway bridge, the magnificent mountain ranges and deep gorge spread out below us.

The conductor gently turned off the engine and thoughtfully gave everyone plenty of time to take pictures. Even more surprisingly, he brought out a bubble machine and sent sparkling, colorful bubbles out over the incredibly deep gorge. The rainbow-colored bubbles floated on the wind between the blue sky and the railway bridge, as beautiful as a fairy tale.

Perhaps this is exactly what makes travel so captivating: there are unexpected disappointments, but there are always unanticipated surprises as well. The conductor’s sincere, pure, radiant smile remains deeply etched in my heart to this day, warming all my memories of Takachiho.