Itohkyuemon Uji Main Store Tea Room | Review by Holly

It happened to be raining when I visited Byodoin this time. Maybe there were fewer visitors because of the rain, so even though it's a popular attraction, it wasn't very crowded. The grounds have gravel paths, so they were still fairly easy to walk on in the rain. My visit also happened to fall during cherry blossom season. Although the rain had already caused some of the blossoms to fall, it also meant there wasn't the usual cherry blossom season congestion. The cherry blossoms, pond, and Heian-period-style architecture in the gloomy rain instead created a more tranquil beauty, making the entire visit unexpectedly pleasant.

It only started raining after I arrived in Kyoto, so I bought a clear umbrella at a convenience store at the last minute. Because of my budget, I chose the cheapest umbrella there, which happened to be clear. I didn't realize how convenient it was until I actually used it. Especially when taking photos under the cherry trees or in front of Byodoin, the clear umbrella didn't block the scenery in front of me. It was only then that I truly understood why clear umbrellas are so common on the streets of Japan.

The grounds of Byodoin were larger than I had originally imagined. Once inside, I found that it wasn't just Phoenix Hall itself that was worth seeing. The surrounding gardens, pond, and views from different angles were also very interesting. The architecture has a very distinctive Heian-period style, especially the sight of Phoenix Hall standing in front of the pond, which easily brings to mind the ideal residences sought by aristocrats at the time. Byodoin was originally created when Fujiwara no Yorimichi converted his villa in Uji into a temple. With that background in mind, it's easy to understand why the entire setting has such a strong atmosphere of Heian aristocratic culture.

If time allows, I also highly recommend visiting the Byodoin Museum Hoshokan. It houses many important cultural properties and precious artifacts from Byodoin, where you can learn historical details that aren't directly apparent from outside Phoenix Hall. Still, this part depends on your personal interest in historical artifacts, since there is an admission fee, but I personally thought it was well worth it.

Byodoin also has a very special meaning for me. I received my first goshuin here, and you could say that visit began my later habit of collecting goshuin.

Overall, although it rained during this visit to Byodoin and some of the cherry blossoms had already fallen, I actually really liked this less-than-perfect spring scenery. It left a completely different impression from a sunny-day visit. On top of that, the clear umbrella unexpectedly became a useful prop for taking photos, adding another interesting memory to this rainy-day trip.

Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple was originally just a place I planned to stop by on my way to Tsukiji Market, but after seeing it in person, its architecture ended up leaving a deep impression on me. The current main hall was designed by architectural historian Chuta Ito, and its exterior has a strong Indian and South Asian Buddhist architectural style. The dome, stonework, and overall silhouette are completely different from what you would normally picture as a Japanese temple.

But what is really interesting is that when you get closer, you notice that it still retains much of the refinement distinctive to Japanese architecture. The animal carvings, decorative details, stained glass, and interior furnishings do not simply copy an Indian style. They incorporate a lot of Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship, so the building looks very foreign overall, yet very Japanese when viewed closely. This kind of blend is truly uncommon among Japanese temples.

There is also a large pipe organ inside the main hall, which is quite unusual in a Buddhist temple. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited in the worship area. Otherwise, the contrast between the interior and exterior would be even more striking, since the inside of the main hall looks much like many other Hongwanji temples.

The Tsumugi cafe next to Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple is also well known, and its signature offering is the “18-Dish Breakfast,” which lets you try a variety of small Japanese dishes at once. I did not pay much attention to the breakfast hours this time, which was a bit of a shame. If you are planning to continue on to Tsukiji Market for food afterward, I would recommend watching how much you eat, or you may end up full before you even explore the market.

Osu Kannon Temple itself is well worth exploring carefully. Its vermilion main hall is quite striking, and the temple grounds feel more lively and down-to-earth than I had expected, without an overly formal sense of distance. The temple enshrines Kannon Bodhisattva and is one of Nagoya’s most prominent temples devoted to Kannon worship. What impressed me most during my visit was actually the large number of pigeons on the grounds. They often fight over food in front of the main hall, and it can be a little scary when a large flock takes off at once. They are not particularly aggressive, but you should still be careful if you feed them.

Like Sensoji Temple, this temple is often said to be a place where it is relatively easy to draw a bad-luck fortune. Fortunately, I have visited several times and have always drawn good luck, so I am quite grateful for Kannon’s care. In addition to the main hall, the grounds also include a bell tower, Niomon Gate, and purification pavilion. The amulets and other items available here are also distinctive.

Near the bell tower, there is also a mechanical puppet display called “Muneharu Ranman,” which performs automatically every day at 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, and 18:30. It is themed around Tokugawa Muneharu, lord of the Owari Domain. If you are interested, you can time your visit to see it.