Tsukiji Outer Market | Review by Holly

Whenever I visit Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, my main reason is always the Tenjin-san Market held on the 25th of each month. If you like kimono, vintage clothing, or kimono accessories, I really recommend checking it out. Kyoto has quite a few antique markets, but based on the several times I've visited, this one has an especially large number of kimono-related stalls. There is a very complete selection, from kimono, haori, and obi to obijime and all kinds of kimono accessories. Some undergarments and consumable items are even sold new, and the prices are much lower than in stores. For anyone who is genuinely interested in kimono, this is a great place to hunt for treasures.

The Tenjin-san Market itself is huge. Besides kimono, there are antiques, old tools, tableware, miscellaneous goods, plants, and all kinds of snacks. The food stalls are mainly concentrated near the main entrance. There aren't many of them, but they're enough to fill your stomach, and trying something new isn't really that important. The food is basically just there to help you recharge, because it's very easy to lose track of time while browsing here. If your main goal is to buy kimono, I recommend coming early because the good items really do get picked over quickly.

Although most transactions at the market are cash only, during my later visits I noticed that some stalls had started accepting credit cards. I usually skip the stalls that accept cards, since they mainly sell antiques and probably only offer card payments because the transaction amounts can be quite high. Still, if you find something you really like, paying by card is quite convenient, since it's hard to carry that much cash around.

Kitano Tenmangu Shrine itself is also well worth visiting. I've been here many times, and each visit feels a little different. If you come in February, you can enjoy the plum blossoms in addition to browsing the Tenjin-san Market. If you happen to visit on the 25th, you can also attend the Plum Blossom Festival. In addition to the festival, there is the Baikasai Nodate Grand Tea Ceremony, an outdoor tea ceremony served by geiko and maiko from Kyoto's Kamishichiken district amid the blooming plum trees. During the Setsubun Festival in early February, geiko and maiko from the Kamishichiken Kabukai also perform a dedication of traditional Japanese dance at the Kagura Hall. If you want to experience Kyoto's traditional performing arts, each of these events has its own distinctive appeal.

I also visited once in April. The cherry blossom season was already almost over, so I didn't have high expectations, but I was very lucky and happened to see a shower of falling cherry blossoms. It was incredibly romantic and ended up becoming one of my strongest memories of Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. From Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, you can continue on to Hirano Shrine, which is also one of Kyoto's well-known cherry blossom viewing spots. The two places fit very naturally into the same outing.

The Former Iwasaki House Garden is a place that I think is well worth taking the time to explore. It was originally the main residence of Hisaya Iwasaki, the third president of Mitsubishi, and was completed in 1896 (Meiji 29). The most interesting thing about the estate is that you can see both an extremely ornate Western-style building and a traditional Japanese-style residence in the same space. This combination of Japanese and Western styles is also a representative feature of upper-class residences from the Meiji era.

The Western-style building is based on the Jacobean style of 17th-century England, with Renaissance, Islamic, and other design elements incorporated into it. Everything from the exterior to the interior details is quite impressive. What particularly stood out to me was the “kinkarakawa-shi” wallpaper inside, which uses washi paper, metal foil, and embossing techniques to create the look of leather wallpaper. It was a very valuable form of interior decoration at the time. Different patterns of kinkarakawa-shi wallpaper can still be seen on the second floor. Unfortunately, photography isn't allowed inside, which was a bit disappointing for me.

The Western-style building was mainly used for receiving guests and social gatherings, while the adjacent Japanese-style building served as the Iwasaki family's more everyday living space. Seeing two completely different architectural styles side by side really gives you a sense of how Japanese homes changed after Japan began widely adopting Western culture during the Meiji era. In addition to the Western-style building and the main hall of the Japanese-style building, the surviving structures include a very distinctive billiards room. It is a wooden building designed to resemble a Swiss mountain lodge and is connected to the Western-style building by an underground passage.

Another thing I really liked here was how distinctive the souvenirs related to kinkarakawa-shi wallpaper were. The bookmarks, card holders, and other items sold on-site aren't exactly cheap, but they may appeal to anyone interested in architecture, paper goods, or historically significant crafts like these. Snacks are also available, so you can take a break while enjoying something to eat.

However, don't underestimate the size of the garden. I felt that it took about five or six minutes just to walk from the ticket booth to the entrance of the residence, and part of the route is uphill. The entire grounds are also much larger than you might imagine from looking at the buildings alone. Although only about one-third of the original property remains today, some elements of a daimyo garden and a large lawn have been preserved.

So, if you want to thoroughly explore the Western-style building, Japanese-style building, and garden, I would recommend allowing at least two to three hours. I was honestly a little tired by the time I finished walking around, but fortunately there is a rest area near the exit. That was very thoughtful for people who have just walked all the way around the grounds.

The main reason to visit Kappabashi Dougu Street, rather than low prices, is the complete and diverse selection of products. You can find everything from knives, cookware, tableware, and baking tools to food models, packaging materials, uniforms, store supplies, and even large commercial kitchen equipment. Simply put, if it's related to the food and beverage industry, you can find almost everything you need here, from the dining area to the kitchen. Even if you're just a tourist, it's easy to find tableware or kitchen supplies you normally wouldn't pay much attention to, which is actually pretty interesting.

If you need tax-free shopping, you can also look for the “Smart Refund Kappabashi Tax-Free Counter” on Dougu Street. Since not every store can process tax exemptions directly, you can get relevant information here to help plan your shopping budget. It also offers luggage and merchandise storage, delivery, foreign currency exchange, and other services, making it very convenient for international visitors.

Another small reminder that's easy to overlook is the restrooms. Kappabashi isn't a department store-style shopping mall, and very few stores allow visitors to use their restrooms. It's best to check the locations of nearby public restrooms before you start shopping instead of waiting until you're halfway through.

If you start at the Niimi Tableware Store, which has a giant chef statue on its roof, I personally think the first part of the street is better suited for regular tourists to browse at a leisurely pace. As you go farther, you'll find more commercial-grade, professional cooking equipment. If you only want to buy tableware, knives, baking supplies, or food models, you really don't have to force yourself to walk the entire street.

One more thing: I really don't recommend coming on a Sunday. Although every store has different closing days, I personally felt that more than half the stores were closed on Sunday. Unless you really can't fit it into your schedule otherwise, it's best to avoid Sundays and national holidays. It would be a shame to make a special trip here only to find that many stores are closed.