[Iwate Prefecture] Breathe Deep and Step into the Heritage of Performing Arts in Sanriku

One dance that has passed down through the ages hails from Fudai Village in northern Iwate. Named the Unotori Kagura, this dance procession is said to invoke the spirit of Unotori Shrine, bringing seafaring mercies and abundant fishing to those who see it. This custom of Mawari Kagura, or traveling Kagura dance is a one-of-a-kind heritage in the Sanriku area, designated in Japan as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property.

Why are there so many local performing arts along the Sanriku coast? It's believed that the natural environment played a significant role in their origin. In this region, the cold and damp wind known as "Yamase" in the summer was known across history to hinder the growth of rice and cotton crops. Given its proximity to the sea, it's easy to imagine that performances to pray for bountiful harvests and large catches of fish developed here.

Further, to the north of Miyako City in Iwate Prefecture, there are raised cliffs (marine terraces) formed by elevated seafloor, and to the south, there are intricate inlets known as ria coastlines. With villages separated by mountains and challenging access between them, the landscape hints as to why diverse local arts remained intact without influence from other regions.

These natural landscapes and so much more await you when you step out onto the Michinoku Coastal Trail. Spanning over 1,000 km, the trail goes from Kabushima in Hachinohe City, Aomori, to Matsukawaura Environmental Park in Soma City, Fukushima. The trail was fully opened in 2019 to support reconstruction after the Great East Japan Earthquake, in joint effort with the Ministry of the Environment, 29 municipalities across 4 prefectures, private organizations, and local residents.

Trek across the forest roads and sandy beaches for a real feel of the terrain that you might miss if just driving by. Perhaps these were the paths that people who created local arts walked on long ago. Make your way along at your own pace, where new discoveries and encounters are surely afoot.

Hikers can cover the entire Michinoku Coastal Trail in about 50 days at a pace of 20km a day. Depending on your personal stamina and experience however, you can even break up the trail into more manageable sections.

For Fudai Village, you’ll kickoff from Fudai Station. Fudai Station is accessible via a 37-minute ride on the Sanriku Railway Rias Line from Kuji station. From Kuji, you can reach Morioka station by the express bus "Kuji Kohaku" in 2 hours and 3 minutes. Morioka is accessible from Tokyo Station via the Tohoku Shinkansen in just 2 hours and 10 minutes.
If heading to Otsuchi Town, you’ll want Otsuchi Station, just a 1-hour 15-minute ride from Miyako Station on the Sanriku Railway Rias Line. There's a bus in front of Morioka Station that shuttles to the front of Miyako Station in about 1 hour and 40 minutes.

Thus concludes this deep dive into the backstory of traditional performing arts still thriving in Sanriku. With the Michinoku Coastal Trail, savvy travelers will enjoy feeling that much closer to the artisans who poured their spirit into their local dances. You can go by car or train to watch these performances, but taking to the Michinoku Coastal Trail will take you on a foray, getting lost in the heart and soul behind it all.

When embarking on the Michinoku Coastal Trail, we recommend using the "Hiking Map Book" available at online shops and visitor centers. A portion of the sales goes to the trail's upkeep. It was created with the hope of revitalizing the northeastern, or “Tohoku” coast, aiming for those who walk it and the communities that surround it to nurture the path together.