This secluded temple stands in Yase-Ohara, an area cherished by aristocrats and samurai since the Heian period. Usually closed to the public, it opens for special viewings twice a year in spring and fall. With more than 100 varieties of maple trees growing on its grounds, it is one of Kyoto’s premier fall foliage destinations. The scenery is exceptional when the entire area turns brilliant red, while the fresh green maples are also well worth seeing.
The site was originally a retreat belonging to Sanjo Sanetomi, a court noble of the Meiji period. Extensive renovations carried out from the late Taisho period to the early Showa period created a sukiya-style building with a total floor area of approximately 8,500 square feet and three gardens that incorporate the surrounding natural scenery, all set within grounds spanning approximately 9.8 acres. Each garden has its own distinctive character: Ruri Garden, the main garden, represents the Pure Land shining in a lapis lazuli hue; Yamaroji Garden is covered in deep green moss; and Garyo Garden is a pond garden where water and stones depict a dragon ascending to the heavens.
The view of Ruri Garden from the shoin is particularly renowned. From the second-floor room, fresh greenery in spring and colorful foliage in fall fill the windows, creating a spectacular sight. The maple trees reflected on the desktop produce an enchanting space that seems to envelop visitors in foliage. Another highlight is the “floor maple” view, in which the scenery is reflected on the beautifully polished, lacquered corridor floor.
The Yase kama-buro, considered the prototype of the Japanese steam bath, is also worth seeing. According to legend, during the Jinshin War of 672, Prince Oama used this steam bath to heal a back wound caused by an arrow.
The temple also houses numerous treasures, including a Muromachi-period painting of the Amida Triad descending to welcome the faithful and an Edo-period folding screen depicting flowers and plants. Several are displayed during each special viewing period. Take your time appreciating them along with the building and gardens.
Highlights
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The temple is open to visitors only during two special viewing periods each year.
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One of Kyoto’s premier fall foliage destinations, it is also lovely when the maples are fresh green in spring.
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The view of Ruri Garden from the shoin is particularly recommended.
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Maple trees reflected on the desk and floor create an enchanting scene.
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Do not miss the kama-buro, the prototype of the Japanese steam bath.