Hirano Shrine (Kyoto) | Review by Holly

It happened to be raining when I visited Byodoin this time. Maybe there were fewer visitors because of the rain, so even though it's a popular attraction, it wasn't very crowded. The grounds have gravel paths, so they were still fairly easy to walk on in the rain. My visit also happened to fall during cherry blossom season. Although the rain had already caused some of the blossoms to fall, it also meant there wasn't the usual cherry blossom season congestion. The cherry blossoms, pond, and Heian-period-style architecture in the gloomy rain instead created a more tranquil beauty, making the entire visit unexpectedly pleasant.

It only started raining after I arrived in Kyoto, so I bought a clear umbrella at a convenience store at the last minute. Because of my budget, I chose the cheapest umbrella there, which happened to be clear. I didn't realize how convenient it was until I actually used it. Especially when taking photos under the cherry trees or in front of Byodoin, the clear umbrella didn't block the scenery in front of me. It was only then that I truly understood why clear umbrellas are so common on the streets of Japan.

The grounds of Byodoin were larger than I had originally imagined. Once inside, I found that it wasn't just Phoenix Hall itself that was worth seeing. The surrounding gardens, pond, and views from different angles were also very interesting. The architecture has a very distinctive Heian-period style, especially the sight of Phoenix Hall standing in front of the pond, which easily brings to mind the ideal residences sought by aristocrats at the time. Byodoin was originally created when Fujiwara no Yorimichi converted his villa in Uji into a temple. With that background in mind, it's easy to understand why the entire setting has such a strong atmosphere of Heian aristocratic culture.

If time allows, I also highly recommend visiting the Byodoin Museum Hoshokan. It houses many important cultural properties and precious artifacts from Byodoin, where you can learn historical details that aren't directly apparent from outside Phoenix Hall. Still, this part depends on your personal interest in historical artifacts, since there is an admission fee, but I personally thought it was well worth it.

Byodoin also has a very special meaning for me. I received my first goshuin here, and you could say that visit began my later habit of collecting goshuin.

Overall, although it rained during this visit to Byodoin and some of the cherry blossoms had already fallen, I actually really liked this less-than-perfect spring scenery. It left a completely different impression from a sunny-day visit. On top of that, the clear umbrella unexpectedly became a useful prop for taking photos, adding another interesting memory to this rainy-day trip.

It happened to be raining when I visited the Itohkyuemon Uji store this time. Maybe because of the weather, it wasn't as crowded inside as I had expected. This was also my first time trying a matcha dango parfait. The matcha flavor was quite rich, and it came with a wide variety of toppings that gave it different textures. Overall, it was better than I expected.

Overall, I think Itohkyuemon's matcha desserts are worth trying, especially for people who like a rich matcha flavor. However, the Uji store is a little far from the main attractions in central Uji. If your itinerary is mainly focused around the Uji River and Byodoin, you'll need to set aside some extra time to make a special trip here.

Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple was originally just a place I planned to stop by on my way to Tsukiji Market, but after seeing it in person, its architecture ended up leaving a deep impression on me. The current main hall was designed by architectural historian Chuta Ito, and its exterior has a strong Indian and South Asian Buddhist architectural style. The dome, stonework, and overall silhouette are completely different from what you would normally picture as a Japanese temple.

But what is really interesting is that when you get closer, you notice that it still retains much of the refinement distinctive to Japanese architecture. The animal carvings, decorative details, stained glass, and interior furnishings do not simply copy an Indian style. They incorporate a lot of Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship, so the building looks very foreign overall, yet very Japanese when viewed closely. This kind of blend is truly uncommon among Japanese temples.

There is also a large pipe organ inside the main hall, which is quite unusual in a Buddhist temple. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited in the worship area. Otherwise, the contrast between the interior and exterior would be even more striking, since the inside of the main hall looks much like many other Hongwanji temples.

The Tsumugi cafe next to Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple is also well known, and its signature offering is the “18-Dish Breakfast,” which lets you try a variety of small Japanese dishes at once. I did not pay much attention to the breakfast hours this time, which was a bit of a shame. If you are planning to continue on to Tsukiji Market for food afterward, I would recommend watching how much you eat, or you may end up full before you even explore the market.