I happened to catch the Kamigamo Handicraft Market, held at Kamigamo Shrine on the fourth Sunday of every month. I have to say, Japan's handicraft markets are really great for shopping. The vendors aren't just local Japanese people—you'll also see international artists taking part. They sell everything from fabric goods, leather items, pottery, and woodwork to household goods, and many of the pieces aren't just attractive but also highly practical. Some stalls even clear out materials or unfinished items at very reasonable prices.
Because of that, even though I hadn't particularly planned on buying anything, I ended up shopping the whole way through. The item that left the strongest impression on me was an orange canvas bag with cowhide handles. I still use it today, and it's truly very durable. The market also has some food stalls, but they mostly sell small baked goods, coffee, and handmade snacks rather than full meals. So if you plan to stay for a while, I'd recommend eating beforehand. The market is currently held from 9:00 to 15:00 on the fourth Sunday of every month, so check the date in advance if you want to catch it.
Another thing I really like about visiting in summer is the stream that runs through the shrine grounds where the market is held. When you get hot from browsing, you can take a walk by the water. Lots of children play in the stream. If you plan to visit in summer, I'd recommend bringing an extra towel or a pair of sandals so you can play in the water more easily. After all, this kind of atmosphere is rarely seen in Taiwan.
As for the shrine itself, Kamigamo Shrine and Shimogamo Shrine are both important shrines for the Kamo Festival, also known as the Aoi Festival. Both have striking vermilion tower gates, but they felt different to me. Shimogamo Shrine's gate feels grander, while Kamigamo Shrine's feels a little more refined and elegant. That may also have something to do with the large lawns, streams, and more open surroundings.
I visited near the end of cherry blossom season, so I wasn't expecting much. To my surprise, the large weeping cherry tree on the grounds still had blossoms, so I was very lucky. It was also almost May and just before the Kamo Kurabeuma horse race, so I saw riders and horses moving around the grounds. Kamigamo Shrine's Kamo Kurabeuma is held every year on May 5 and is an ancient equestrian ritual that has continued for over 900 years. Just seeing the horses being prepared was already very impressive, though unfortunately I didn't get to see the actual event this time.
There is also a sacred horse stable on the grounds, and I was lucky enough to see the white horse this time. Kamigamo Shrine has long had deep ties to horse worship and equestrian rituals, so everything from the sacred horse to the Kamo Kurabeuma gives this shrine a distinctive character that's less common among other shrines in Kyoto. Of the shrine items, my favorite is still the rabbit-shaped fortune slip. The tiny rabbit is truly adorable and is one of their signature items.
Overall, I really like Kamigamo Shrine. If you happen to visit on the fourth Sunday of the month when the handicraft market is held, I highly recommend setting aside half a day to browse at a leisurely pace, plus about another hour to properly visit the shrine grounds. That will pretty much fill the day. If you're even luckier, you may come across a Shinto wedding. I saw a bride in a white shiromuku kimono here, and she fit the atmosphere of the shrine beautifully.
