Japanese Beauty at Your Fingertips: Experience Traditional Tsumami-zaiku at Oharibako in Kyoto

There are just two basic techniques: maru-tsumami and ken-tsumami.

Maru-tsumami involves folding layers of square fabric and rounding the tip to form a petal. Its soft curves are used to depict rounded flowers such as cherry blossoms, plum blossoms, camellias, and hydrangeas. The rounded form creates a gentle, charming impression, so it is often incorporated into hair ornaments for occasions such as Shichi-Go-San.

Ken-tsumami involves folding layers of square fabric and forming a sharply pointed tip. Its crisp shape is used to depict chrysanthemums, wisteria, bamboo grass, and leaves. Compared with maru-tsumami, it creates more depth and movement and helps give the overall piece definition.

Both maru-tsumami and ken-tsumami are made by folding square pieces of fabric. The only difference is the direction of the third fold. It is surprising how dramatically this small change transforms the petals.

Combining these two techniques makes it possible to depict a wide variety of flowers, plants, and animals—one of the craft's defining features and attractions. Both methods are often used in a single piece, with maru-tsumami for the flowers and ken-tsumami for the leaves, for example. The countless flowers created from just two basic techniques reveal the remarkable depth of tsumami-zaiku.

Japanese people have expressed the four seasons through many cultural forms, including wagashi sweets, tea rooms, kimono, flower arrangement, and fragrances. The same is true of tsumami-zaiku, which uses fabric to depict flowers and nature while celebrating the changing seasons. Each flower also carries a meaning. The plum blossom, a classic tsumami-zaiku motif, represents the arrival of a new spring because it is the first to bloom amid the bitter cold. Wisteria symbolizes elegance and prosperity through its long, trailing clusters, while maple leaves represent the deepening of autumn. The portrayal of the seasons in tiny pieces of fabric reflects the Japanese appreciation of nature. Maiko, in fact, wear different hana kanzashi each month. This custom is another example of the Japanese culture of wearing the seasons.

Oharibako, located in Kyoto's Kita Ward, offers hands-on workshops where visitors can make their own tsumami-zaiku. It stands near Daitoku-ji Temple in an area dotted with historic temples and traditional townhouses that evoke the atmosphere of the ancient capital. Oharibako was founded in 1945 as a thread wholesaler in Nishijin, Kyoto's major center for Nishijin textiles. At the time, it supplied thread for fine Nishijin textiles to artisans throughout Kyoto. The company later became involved in making braided cords and obijime sash cords and now handles every stage of tsumami-zaiku production and sales. Its seven artisans create exquisite pieces each day.

At this workshop, you can make tsumami-zaiku items such as kanzashi hair ornaments and clips. An artisan guides you through the entire process, from selecting colors to adding the finishing touches. Another advantage is that everything you need is provided. The workshops began about 20 years ago, and more than 20,000 people have participated. Despite that impressive number, every participant has successfully completed their piece. Anyone can take on the project and have fun. Instruction is available in both Japanese and English, making the experience particularly popular with international visitors.

The tsumami-zaiku workshop is held in a separate annex, a renovated Taisho-period Kyoto townhouse. Its windows overlook a lovely small courtyard garden.

The workshop lets you create an original tsumami-zaiku piece by choosing your preferred flower shape and petal colors from a wide range of options.

First, choose the flower shape. There are three options: plum blossom, chrysanthemum, and mixed flower. The petal-folding method varies with the shape you select. I chose the chrysanthemum. It is helpful that you can look at samples and take your time deciding on the day. Many participants have trouble choosing, so there is no need to rush.

Next, choose the base. The three options are a clip, kanzashi, or bag charm. The bag charm costs an additional ¥200. Since the kanzashi does not secure the hair on its own, it is inserted into hair that has already been styled up. This time, I chose the easy-to-wear clip.

Next, select the flower colors. There are 12 colors to choose from. You will need six pieces for the plum blossom or mixed flower and nine for the chrysanthemum. You can use a single color or combine two or three. The workshop uses pure habutae silk, the same fabric used for maiko hair ornaments. Since my chrysanthemum required nine pieces, I used tweezers to select three dark pink, three light blue, and three pale purple squares.

Now it is time to start making the piece. Beginners and those who are not confident in their dexterity need not worry, as an artisan stays by your side and offers patient guidance. The chrysanthemum consists of nine pointed petals made using the ken-tsumami technique. The plum blossom uses six maru-tsumami petals, while the mixed flower combines three ken-tsumami and three maru-tsumami petals.

First, hold one piece of fabric with the tweezers. Grip the square along its diagonal, making sure the tips of the tweezers are positioned precisely at the corners. Fold it in half. Once folded, reposition the tweezers toward the right-angle corner of the triangle.

Rotate the tweezers to the left and fold the fabric in half again. Then remove the tweezers, grip the fabric from the triangle's right-angle side, and fold it in half once more.

Reposition the tweezers toward the layered tip. Use scissors to trim the protruding edges so they are even. Since you will trim them at this stage, there is no need to worry if the edges were slightly uneven during the earlier steps.
Press the trimmed end into the paste. At last, one petal is complete.

Repeat the process for all nine petals. You can feel yourself improving as you become accustomed to the technique. The detailed work made it easy to focus fully on the task.

The nine petals nestled in the paste look charming, almost like rabbit ears. Apparently, many participants find this stage so cute that they stop to take photos.

Once the petals are finished, attach them to the base. Use the tweezers to pick up each petal and place it individually on the paste-covered foundation. Begin by positioning three petals of the first color at equal intervals. Repeat with the second and third colors, then adjust the overall balance of the petals to complete the chrysanthemum!

Next, choose a single flower center. There are two options: crystal or gold cord. The choice apparently changes the overall impression considerably. The gold cord creates a charming look, while the crystal gives a more sophisticated impression, so I chose the crystal.

After attaching the flower center, the final step is to choose the color and style of the trailing ornament, which adds an elegant finishing touch. The tsumami-zaiku wisteria style is available in seven colors, as is the pure-silk tassel style. (Those who selected a bag charm may choose only the tassel style.)
I compared the finished flower with each trailing ornament before making my choice. Since the crystal center gave the flower a slightly sophisticated look, I chose the charming tsumami-zaiku wisteria style for contrast. You can select a color that matches the petals or choose something entirely different. I wanted a cohesive look, so I chose the same pale purple as the petals.

Once the trailing ornament is attached, the piece is complete! Thanks to the artisan's careful guidance, I created a tsumami-zaiku piece I truly loved.

The piece is transferred to a base made from Kitayama cedar, a renowned Kyoto timber, so you can take it home that day.

However, the paste will not yet be completely dry, so you cannot wear the piece on the day it is made. If you would like to wear your handmade tsumami-zaiku during your Kyoto trip, it is best to take the workshop by the day before you plan to wear it. On a later day, consider renting a kimono, wearing your handmade ornament in your hair, and strolling through Kyoto♪

This workshop teaches authentic tsumami-zaiku techniques using traditional materials and tools. For example, the fabric is habutae, the traditional pure-silk material used for tsumami-zaiku. It is hand-dyed in Kyoto, resulting in distinctive color variations. The workshop also uses the same traditional starch paste as professional artisans. Because starch paste dries slowly, it allows time to correct fine details and offers greater flexibility. I had worn tsumami-zaiku hair ornaments many times for special occasions such as Shichi-Go-San, Coming-of-Age Day, and graduation ceremonies, but I had never imagined I could make one myself. Even though I am not particularly dexterous, I found it easy to make. The artisan corrected the difficult parts, helping me achieve a polished result. Making every petal by hand gave me a real attachment to the finished piece. I would love to wear my handmade tsumami-zaiku the next time I put on a yukata or kimono.

In addition to taking the workshop, you can purchase tsumami-zaiku made by the artisans themselves.
The selection ranges from charming children's hair ornaments for Shichi-Go-San to sophisticated, elaborate pieces for Coming-of-Age Day. Find a favorite to take home as a souvenir.

Tsumami-zaiku designs include flowers, birds, animals, and many other motifs. Different combinations of petal forms make countless creations possible—there are said to be as many shapes as there are types of flowers.
For those who wish to pursue tsumami-zaiku as a hobby, the store also sells materials such as habutae fabric and tassels.

Apparently, many participants leave the workshop wanting to continue the craft as a hobby. Oharibako also offers year-round tsumami-zaiku classes for them. Participants can learn to make a different seasonal flower for each of the 12 months, such as hydrangeas in June.

One particularly eye-catching feature inside Oharibako is a wall covered entirely with tsumami-zaiku. It is store decor rather than merchandise, but the densely arranged pieces create an impressive sight, almost like a field of flowers. The display was so vibrant that I could not help admiring it. Be sure to look for it when you visit.