Kitano Tenmangu Shrine | Review by Holly

I recommend visiting Tsukiji Outer Market together with Tsukiji Hongwanji, since the two are very close to each other. You can visit Hongwanji first and then walk over to the outer market. Tsukiji Hongwanji itself is quite distinctive, so you can look at the architecture first and then head to the market to eat. It makes for a very smooth itinerary.

If you're visiting Tsukiji, I recommend not arriving too late. When I got there a little after 9:00, I could already clearly feel large numbers of tourists pouring in, and the market was quite lively. In particular, quite a few people were pulling luggage around with them. I personally don't really recommend doing that, because the market aisles aren't very wide to begin with, and once it gets crowded, large pieces of luggage really take up a lot of space.

Because I didn't stay very long this time, I wasn't able to fully explore all the food in the market. I just picked a few tamagoyaki shops to try. Once again, it proved that my stomach prefers Kanto-style tamagoyaki, and I had a very enjoyable time eating my way through them.

Although seafood is the first thing many people think of when visiting Tsukiji, once you actually walk into the outer market, you'll find so many choices that it can be a little overwhelming. In addition to fresh fish, sushi, and seafood bowls, there are also tamagoyaki, dried goods, fruits and vegetables, meat, and more. Although the main market has moved to Toyosu, even a skinny camel is still bigger than a horse, and the location is convenient, so there are still many shops operating here. If it's your first visit, I actually recommend looking up several places you genuinely want to try beforehand. There are simply too many choices, and with the crowds, it's easy to see one place you want to try and then another, until you end up not knowing what to eat at all.

Also keep in mind that Tsukiji isn't simply a tourist food street. It's a district of specialty shops that developed out of a working market, so it's better not to eat while walking.

The Former Iwasaki House Garden is a place that I think is well worth taking the time to explore. It was originally the main residence of Hisaya Iwasaki, the third president of Mitsubishi, and was completed in 1896 (Meiji 29). The most interesting thing about the estate is that you can see both an extremely ornate Western-style building and a traditional Japanese-style residence in the same space. This combination of Japanese and Western styles is also a representative feature of upper-class residences from the Meiji era.

The Western-style building is based on the Jacobean style of 17th-century England, with Renaissance, Islamic, and other design elements incorporated into it. Everything from the exterior to the interior details is quite impressive. What particularly stood out to me was the “kinkarakawa-shi” wallpaper inside, which uses washi paper, metal foil, and embossing techniques to create the look of leather wallpaper. It was a very valuable form of interior decoration at the time. Different patterns of kinkarakawa-shi wallpaper can still be seen on the second floor. Unfortunately, photography isn't allowed inside, which was a bit disappointing for me.

The Western-style building was mainly used for receiving guests and social gatherings, while the adjacent Japanese-style building served as the Iwasaki family's more everyday living space. Seeing two completely different architectural styles side by side really gives you a sense of how Japanese homes changed after Japan began widely adopting Western culture during the Meiji era. In addition to the Western-style building and the main hall of the Japanese-style building, the surviving structures include a very distinctive billiards room. It is a wooden building designed to resemble a Swiss mountain lodge and is connected to the Western-style building by an underground passage.

Another thing I really liked here was how distinctive the souvenirs related to kinkarakawa-shi wallpaper were. The bookmarks, card holders, and other items sold on-site aren't exactly cheap, but they may appeal to anyone interested in architecture, paper goods, or historically significant crafts like these. Snacks are also available, so you can take a break while enjoying something to eat.

However, don't underestimate the size of the garden. I felt that it took about five or six minutes just to walk from the ticket booth to the entrance of the residence, and part of the route is uphill. The entire grounds are also much larger than you might imagine from looking at the buildings alone. Although only about one-third of the original property remains today, some elements of a daimyo garden and a large lawn have been preserved.

So, if you want to thoroughly explore the Western-style building, Japanese-style building, and garden, I would recommend allowing at least two to three hours. I was honestly a little tired by the time I finished walking around, but fortunately there is a rest area near the exit. That was very thoughtful for people who have just walked all the way around the grounds.

The main reason to visit Kappabashi Dougu Street, rather than low prices, is the complete and diverse selection of products. You can find everything from knives, cookware, tableware, and baking tools to food models, packaging materials, uniforms, store supplies, and even large commercial kitchen equipment. Simply put, if it's related to the food and beverage industry, you can find almost everything you need here, from the dining area to the kitchen. Even if you're just a tourist, it's easy to find tableware or kitchen supplies you normally wouldn't pay much attention to, which is actually pretty interesting.

If you need tax-free shopping, you can also look for the “Smart Refund Kappabashi Tax-Free Counter” on Dougu Street. Since not every store can process tax exemptions directly, you can get relevant information here to help plan your shopping budget. It also offers luggage and merchandise storage, delivery, foreign currency exchange, and other services, making it very convenient for international visitors.

Another small reminder that's easy to overlook is the restrooms. Kappabashi isn't a department store-style shopping mall, and very few stores allow visitors to use their restrooms. It's best to check the locations of nearby public restrooms before you start shopping instead of waiting until you're halfway through.

If you start at the Niimi Tableware Store, which has a giant chef statue on its roof, I personally think the first part of the street is better suited for regular tourists to browse at a leisurely pace. As you go farther, you'll find more commercial-grade, professional cooking equipment. If you only want to buy tableware, knives, baking supplies, or food models, you really don't have to force yourself to walk the entire street.

One more thing: I really don't recommend coming on a Sunday. Although every store has different closing days, I personally felt that more than half the stores were closed on Sunday. Unless you really can't fit it into your schedule otherwise, it's best to avoid Sundays and national holidays. It would be a shame to make a special trip here only to find that many stores are closed.