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This is a symbol of the power of Tokugawa Ieyasu in Kyoto. There are numerous valuable remains and attractions, including the national treasure Ninomaru-goten Palace.
After winning the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600 and unifying the country, Tokugawa Ieyasu had Nijo-jo Castle built as his base in Kyoto. It is a historical monument with a history of over 410 years as a castle in the heart of the capital. It was designated a UNESCO world heritage site as a part of the “Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto” in 1994.
The first structure built at Nijo-jo Castle was the Ninomaru Palace, not the Honmaru-goten Palace. The Kara-mon Gate, with its gorgeous Karahafu gable with carvings and ornamental metal fittings under the eaves, was built later on higher ground than the Tsuiji roofed mud wall, on the occasion of the visit of Emperor Go-Mizunoo.
Located beyond the Kara-mon Gate is the only remaining early Edo period structure in the castle, the National Treasure Ninomaru-goten Palace. On the vast premises, there are six buildings called Tozamurai, Shikidai, Ohiroma, Sotetsu-no-ma, Kuro-shoin, and Shiro-shoin, and they are connected in the shape of flying geese. The First and Second Rooms in the Ohiroma (main hall) are known as the places where the last shogun Tokugawa Yoshinobu announced the Restoration of Imperial Rule. Also, the Ninomaru Garden, a special place of scenic beauty, is a Shoin-zukuri style garden redesigned by Kobori Enshu.
The Honmaru was built by Tokugawa Iemitsu in 1626 when Emperor Go-Mizunoo visited here. It had the dignity and majestic presence of a castle, with a five-story castle tower and five main buildings. However, most of them were destroyed by lightning and major fire, which is why Nijo-jo Castle is more like a grand residence for samurai rather than a castle. The current Honmaru-goten Palace was relocated from the former Katsura-no-miya Palace in the Kyoto Imperial Palace in the middle of the Meiji period, and is designated as a national important cultural property as the valuable remains of a noble residence.
Kara-mon Gate, the main gate of Nijo-jo Castle
National treasure, Ninomaru-goten Palace
The First and Second Rooms of Ohiroma in Ninomaru-goten Palace, where the Restoration of Imperial Rule took place
Ninomaru Garden is said to have been redesigned by Kobori Enshu
The appearance of Honmaru
The entrance of Honmaru
Some reviews are AI-translated.
Nijo-jo Castle is very famous for its cherry blossoms. There are many varieties inside the castle grounds, from early-blooming to late-blooming ones, so the viewing season lasts longer than at places with only one variety. The Nijo-jo Castle Cherry Blossom Festival and nighttime illuminations are also held every spring. Although I visited near the end of cherry blossom season, luckily I still saw quite a few trees in full bloom.
Nijo-jo Castle is also very important in Japan’s modern history. It was at Ninomaru Palace that the 15th shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, asked for opinions on returning political authority to the emperor. He later formally returned power to the imperial court, symbolizing the end of Tokugawa shogunate rule. Today, when visiting Ninomaru Palace, you can also see mannequins in the Great Hall recreating this historical scene.
Another interesting feature of Ninomaru Palace is the corridor commonly known as the “nightingale floor.” It makes a sound when you walk on it. I tried really hard to see if I could cross without making any noise, but it was simply impossible. As soon as you put any weight on it, it chirps.
My personal favorite is still the Karamon Gate before entering Ninomaru Palace. The cypress-bark roof has karahafu gables on both the front and back, and the gate is covered in vividly colored carvings of pine, bamboo, plum blossoms, cranes, Chinese guardian lions, and more. It’s truly magnificent. Many traditional buildings in Kyoto tend to have a more understated feel, but the Karamon gates at Nijo-jo Castle and Toyokuni Shrine take a completely different approach. Just looking at them, you can really feel the difference that comes with being in power.
Nijo-jo Castle originally also had a five-story keep, said to have been relocated from Fushimi Castle, but it burned down after being struck by lightning in 1750 and was never rebuilt. Today, you can only climb the former keep’s stone base to see the ruins and surrounding scenery, which feels a little unfortunate. But from another perspective, the truly valuable part of Nijo-jo Castle isn’t the keep, but the fact that Ninomaru Palace has survived. Most of the original palaces at Edo Castle, Osaka Castle, and Nagoya Castle have disappeared, and Nagoya Castle’s Honmaru Palace was only recently reconstructed based on historical records. Although part of Kawagoe Castle’s Honmaru Palace remains, it is no longer a complete palace complex. Nijo-jo Castle’s Ninomaru Palace, however, has been preserved intact, along with its Kano school wall paintings, transoms, and decorative metal fittings. This is what truly makes it irreplaceable among Japanese castle architecture.
I was really lucky to visit right when they were holding a nighttime cherry blossom viewing event, so I got to see a completely different side of this place from the daytime. If you happen to come during cherry blossom season, I highly recommend planning a night sakura visit and experiencing a totally different atmosphere! 🌸
A peak example of the "shoin-zukuri" style from the early Edo period in Japan.
The Kano school sliding-door and wall paintings feature extensive gold-leaf landscapes, pine trees, and birds of prey on the interior walls and screens, expressing the authority and power of the Tokugawa family.
The Ninomaru Palace is really well preserved. This is a place where Japanese history changed, so it’s definitely worth a visit.
You can really feel the history here—the moment you walk in, it feels so majestic! The gardens are beautiful too. It's great for strolling around and imagining what it was like when samurai and generals were here. The cultural atmosphere is really strong.
