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    Nijo-jo Castle is very famous for its cherry blossoms. There are many varieties inside the castle grounds, from early-blooming to late-blooming ones, so the viewing season lasts longer than at places with only one variety. The Nijo-jo Castle Cherry Blossom Festival and nighttime illuminations are also held every spring. Although I visited near the end of cherry blossom season, luckily I still saw quite a few trees in full bloom.

    Nijo-jo Castle is also very important in Japan’s modern history. It was at Ninomaru Palace that the 15th shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, asked for opinions on returning political authority to the emperor. He later formally returned power to the imperial court, symbolizing the end of Tokugawa shogunate rule. Today, when visiting Ninomaru Palace, you can also see mannequins in the Great Hall recreating this historical scene.

    Another interesting feature of Ninomaru Palace is the corridor commonly known as the “nightingale floor.” It makes a sound when you walk on it. I tried really hard to see if I could cross without making any noise, but it was simply impossible. As soon as you put any weight on it, it chirps.

    My personal favorite is still the Karamon Gate before entering Ninomaru Palace. The cypress-bark roof has karahafu gables on both the front and back, and the gate is covered in vividly colored carvings of pine, bamboo, plum blossoms, cranes, Chinese guardian lions, and more. It’s truly magnificent. Many traditional buildings in Kyoto tend to have a more understated feel, but the Karamon gates at Nijo-jo Castle and Toyokuni Shrine take a completely different approach. Just looking at them, you can really feel the difference that comes with being in power.

    Nijo-jo Castle originally also had a five-story keep, said to have been relocated from Fushimi Castle, but it burned down after being struck by lightning in 1750 and was never rebuilt. Today, you can only climb the former keep’s stone base to see the ruins and surrounding scenery, which feels a little unfortunate. But from another perspective, the truly valuable part of Nijo-jo Castle isn’t the keep, but the fact that Ninomaru Palace has survived. Most of the original palaces at Edo Castle, Osaka Castle, and Nagoya Castle have disappeared, and Nagoya Castle’s Honmaru Palace was only recently reconstructed based on historical records. Although part of Kawagoe Castle’s Honmaru Palace remains, it is no longer a complete palace complex. Nijo-jo Castle’s Ninomaru Palace, however, has been preserved intact, along with its Kano school wall paintings, transoms, and decorative metal fittings. This is what truly makes it irreplaceable among Japanese castle architecture.

Other Reviews by Holly

  • Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple

    Located near the Tokyo Tsukiji Market, Tsukiji Hongwanji is a temple of the Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji Sect, whose head temple is Nishi Hongwanji in Kyoto.

    • Tsukiji, Odaiba, Toyosu
    • Shrines & Temples
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    Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple was originally just a place I planned to stop by on my way to Tsukiji Market, but after seeing it in person, its architecture ended up leaving a deep impression on me. The current main hall was designed by architectural historian Chuta Ito, and its exterior has a strong Indian and South Asian Buddhist architectural style. The dome, stonework, and overall silhouette are completely different from what you would normally picture as a Japanese temple.

    But what is really interesting is that when you get closer, you notice that it still retains much of the refinement distinctive to Japanese architecture. The animal carvings, decorative details, stained glass, and interior furnishings do not simply copy an Indian style. They incorporate a lot of Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship, so the building looks very foreign overall, yet very Japanese when viewed closely. This kind of blend is truly uncommon among Japanese temples.

    There is also a large pipe organ inside the main hall, which is quite unusual in a Buddhist temple. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited in the worship area. Otherwise, the contrast between the interior and exterior would be even more striking, since the inside of the main hall looks much like many other Hongwanji temples.

    The Tsumugi cafe next to Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple is also well known, and its signature offering is the “18-Dish Breakfast,” which lets you try a variety of small Japanese dishes at once. I did not pay much attention to the breakfast hours this time, which was a bit of a shame. If you are planning to continue on to Tsukiji Market for food afterward, I would recommend watching how much you eat, or you may end up full before you even explore the market.

  • Osu Kannon Temple

    This temple is the branch headquarters of Shingon Sect, Chisan School, officially called “Kitanosan Shinpukuji Hoshoin Temple ”. It started in Hashima City, Gifu and moved to the current location by General Tokugawa Iyeyasu’s order. It is regarded as one of Japan’s Three Kannon Temples along with Asakusa Kannon in Tokyo and Tsu Kannon in Mie.

    • Nagoya
    • Shrines & Temples
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    Osu Kannon Temple itself is well worth exploring carefully. Its vermilion main hall is quite striking, and the temple grounds feel more lively and down-to-earth than I had expected, without an overly formal sense of distance. The temple enshrines Kannon Bodhisattva and is one of Nagoya’s most prominent temples devoted to Kannon worship. What impressed me most during my visit was actually the large number of pigeons on the grounds. They often fight over food in front of the main hall, and it can be a little scary when a large flock takes off at once. They are not particularly aggressive, but you should still be careful if you feed them.

    Like Sensoji Temple, this temple is often said to be a place where it is relatively easy to draw a bad-luck fortune. Fortunately, I have visited several times and have always drawn good luck, so I am quite grateful for Kannon’s care. In addition to the main hall, the grounds also include a bell tower, Niomon Gate, and purification pavilion. The amulets and other items available here are also distinctive.

    Near the bell tower, there is also a mechanical puppet display called “Muneharu Ranman,” which performs automatically every day at 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, and 18:30. It is themed around Tokugawa Muneharu, lord of the Owari Domain. If you are interested, you can time your visit to see it.

  • Kurashiki Denim Street

    Kurashiki Denim Street is a specialty spot for denim from Kojima, Kurashiki City, known as the birthplace of Japanese-made jeans. It offers a wide range of denim products, including Kojima-made jeans, bags, accessories, and interior goods, with easy-to-shop sections for men, women & kids, and miscellaneous goods. One of its charms is being able to casually experience “Kurashiki denim” while comparing differences in texture and finish.

    • Okayama
    • Miscellaneous Goods
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    Kurashiki Denim Street is located in the Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter. I had seen it featured on a Japanese TV show before, and it is best known for its blue “denim buns” and “denim soft-serve ice cream.” But after seeing the actual color, I suddenly lost my appetite and decided not to try them after all.

    Although it is called “Denim Street,” it is actually more like a small alley-style shopping area with denim products from brands based in Kojima. Everything throughout the area, from the signs and decorations to the merchandise, uses a lot of blue, making it stand out sharply amid the white walls and black roof tiles of the Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter.

    What is interesting about this place is that it is not just a “blue photo spot.” It is genuinely connected to Kurashiki’s local industries. Kojima in particular has a long history of developing textile- and denim-related industries and is also an important birthplace of domestically produced Japanese jeans. So the abundance of denim elements in Kurashiki is not a forced tourism theme, but part of the local industry.

    Once, while riding the train, I happened to see high school students heading home from school, and their uniform jackets had a denim-like look. That was something I never could have imagined when I was a student. It was really unique to see the local industry blend so naturally into everyday life.

    If your itinerary does not leave enough time for a separate trip to Kojima, Kurashiki Denim Street is a good alternative for a simple introduction to denim culture. People interested in jeans, canvas, and fabric products will find more to browse. Even for general tourists, it can be treated as a small, highly distinctive spot within the Bikan Historical Quarter.

    As a side note, the public restroom near the back of Denim Street is also very nicely designed and blends harmoniously with the surrounding scenery. Even small details like this make it clear that Kurashiki puts a lot of care into its tourist spaces.

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