I first stopped by a nearby kissaten for a classic Nagoya breakfast, so I decided to walk into Tokugawaen afterward. To my surprise, I happened to catch a winter peony exhibition. I honestly didn’t expect to see so many peonies in winter. Their delicate petals were layered beautifully, and the colors were so rich. After seeing them all, I understood why people in the past were so fascinated by peonies.
I also happened to come across a nagashi-bina ceremony, which added movement and life to the otherwise quiet Hinamatsuri atmosphere. I didn’t expect to see this ceremony anywhere other than Shimogamo Shrine, and this one even allowed the general public to participate. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to join because I wanted to see the hina dolls at the art museum.
I had assumed a winter garden would feel plain, but the waterfall, water features, and peonies made the garden feel alive even in winter. It also helped me understand what books mean when they describe how daimyo gardens reflected control over technique, resources, and space.
Tokugawaen | Review by Holly
Other Reviews by Holly
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Art Aquarium Museum GINZA
A modern artistic reinterpretation of the goldfish appreciation culture that originated in the Edo period, this unique museum presents the enchanting world of Art Aquarium in the historic heart of Ginza.
The Art Aquarium Museum GINZA is somewhere I'd wanted to visit for a long time. When I actually walked in, my first impression was that it was very lavish, with a touch of the splendor and allure of an oiran procession. The lighting, music, tanks, and decorations all blend together, but what I think was done especially well is that the lighting doesn't overshadow the goldfish themselves. Instead, it acts like stage lighting for them, ensuring that the goldfish remain the true stars of the exhibition.
I especially liked the area where you can view the goldfish from above. Goldfish originated in China, and when they were first kept in containers such as bowls and jars, they were generally viewed from above. This top-viewing style later spread to Japan and also influenced the appreciation of goldfish in terms of their back patterns, body shapes, and the way their tail fins spread out. Today, we're mostly used to viewing fish from the side through glass, so in everyday life there are very few opportunities to appreciate them from this traditional perspective. Being able to experience this ancient way of appreciating the beauty of goldfish here felt quite special.
Another area uses a large number of Japanese lanterns to create the atmosphere, and at first glance it reminded me of the densely arranged lanterns at Kasuga Taisha Shrine in Nara. The other areas make extensive use of light and shadow, reflections on the water, flowers, and traditional Japanese elements to create different moods. Some of the decorations clearly use artificial flowers, but with the lighting and colors of the water, they don't look cheap. Instead, they give the whole space a feeling somewhere between a stage and a dream.
They also offer different seasonal themes, with the flowers, lighting, and some of the exhibits changing accordingly. As a result, the scenery may look completely different depending on when you visit. This time, I happened to catch the end of the winter exhibition. I'm really looking forward to summer, since summer is the season for goldfish, and I hope I'll have a chance to come back and see it. -
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Skyliner
Skyliner is a limited express airport train offering the fastest service between downtown Tokyo and Narita Airport, with a total journey time of 36 minutes*. A fast train offering up to three services per hour, travelling between downtown Tokyo and Narita Airport with only four stops and no changes: Ueno Station, Nippori Station, Narita Airport Terminals 2 & 3, and Narita Airport Terminal 1.
The Skyliner is very convenient for people staying around Ueno or Nippori. If you're staying near Asakusa, transferring from Ueno isn't too much trouble either.
Just keep in mind that I had bought my ticket in Taiwan beforehand, thinking exchanging it on-site would save time. Apparently everyone had the same idea, because there was a long line at the exchange counter, while fewer people were buying tickets directly next to it. In the end, I waited almost half an hour before I could exchange my ticket and board. So even if you've purchased your ticket in advance, it's still a good idea to allow extra time after arriving at Narita, especially when several popular flights arrive around the same time, since the exchange counter can get crowded.
Overall, the Skyliner itself is fast and comfortable, and I highly recommend it for travelers staying near Ueno or Nippori. Just be aware that buying your ticket in Taiwan in advance won't necessarily be faster on-site, and during busy periods, you should allow time to wait in line to exchange it. -
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TOKYO SKYTREE TOWN® Dream Christmas
At TOKYO SKYTREE TOWN®, a commercial complex composed of TOKYO SKYTREE® and TOKYO Solamachi®, special Christmas events are held annually from early November. The entire town is enveloped in a Christmas mood with illuminations, a Christmas market, and projection mapping.
I happened to be here during the event, so I made a special trip to soak up the Christmas atmosphere. In addition to the Christmas market, all of TOKYO SKYTREE TOWN is decorated with large-scale illuminations, Christmas trees, and limited-time light shows during the event. It really feels festive at night.
The Christmas market itself is mainly focused on food, with lots of options such as hot dishes, desserts, and drinks. There is also a seating area, but it gets quite crowded, so there don't seem to be enough seats. Prices are also typical for a tourist destination, so it's not cheap, but they really do create a festive atmosphere. With the lights, decorations, and TOKYO SKYTREE all together, I thought it was pretty nice, especially since I rarely get to experience a Christmas atmosphere like this.
If you're planning to visit, I'd recommend checking the schedule for TOKYO SKYTREE's special lighting or projection shows that day, then planning your visit to the market around them. That way, you can eat, see the Christmas decorations, and enjoy the limited-time light show all in one trip. Overall, it's more worthwhile than coming just for the market. -
